OT: Starting a new project... MB 190SL

Hey Jan have you looked into chemical stripping? I had a 59 done, it came out to about $1200 for everything but the doors.

The sandblast place here gave me a quote of around $1000 to do a complete beetle inside and out???

Reply to
Kafertoys
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I'll look into chemical too for the outer body. What's nice about the underside, is that it doesn't appear to have any undercoating. Just flaking rust everywhere.

I don't know what to do about the doors and lids yet, as they are all aluminum. I wouldn't want to damage them with wrong chemicals.

Reply to
Jan Andersson

hmmm yeah a rotisserie, that is what I need after I get some inside space!!!!

$1300-2500 I could rent the equipment (portable air compressor), build a booth out of tarps, buy safety equipment (cough cough) and save some money. Might even line up someone else who wants their vehicle blasted to share costs. ;-) If I had the space I would take one of those 356s or my Beetle and get busy with it. That place might have to deal with environmental regulations. :-( No places are willing to come to you and do what you want that know what they are doing? Did you try some body shops for leads?

You can mask over areas that you don't want to be blasted.

I have blasted the inside of my '65 Porsche with my small 5hp single stage air compressor and Craftsman blaster. SLOW due to the small compressor.

Thinking out loud here.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

What I want to do, is buy a bigger compressor and a pressurized blaster tank and do it myself. I wouldn't need to strip the car down to a shell, just the parts that turn out to be in the way. I would know what to be careful with, and I could spend DAYS blasting everything I can think of. I'm sure I would be more thorough and more careful than a commercial service who charges by the hour. ($80 an hour as it turns out). I would not charge by the hour. Most likely I would settle for the cost of the equipment!

It would allow me to do much more blasting in the future, like my Nova which is next in line for some extensive metal repairs.

Jan

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Ok, more pictures:

Oil pan. Still had plenty of oil in it. And sludge.

Before:

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After:

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Cleanup revealed a crack
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Yea, I'm looking to get a MIG welder with a spool gun to weld aluminum ;)

Brake master cylinder

Before

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after
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Distributor, valve cover and brake booster

Before

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After

distributor:

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Valve cover:
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Brake booster:
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Front brake backing plate

Before

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After (sandblasted, primered and painted in place to save cost&time)
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Reply to
Jan Andersson

Ahhhh you are THE MASTER! lol

looks good & on the path to progress!

How are those aluminum rods that only need a brush and propane gas for that oil pan crack?

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

never tried those alu repair sticks. Since it's a no stress area, it might work ok. But, this is one more reason to BUY A COOL TOOL. I can't fight that with reason. :D

Jan

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

I was about to use those sticks on an aluminum oil pan but I found more than just one crack......it was more like a piece about to break off after I got the pan cleaned off. So the repair might have been attempted without removal, but decided for liability reasons, and repair longevity, to sell a new oil pan. I can imagine the owner hitting that same area again! lol

One day I will pick some sticks and play with them on something! TG I don't "need" to deal with aluminum welding even though I do have a MIG welder already. I am just a novice welder!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Progress has been slow during the holidays with this project, just finished rear brake drum. Got the front cylinders done but the shoes are still out. So here's the story of the rear drum brake.

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I did get a pressurized 110lb sandblasting tank from Harbor Freight. Haven't used it yet for more than a few seconds to test it. Looks promising.

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Then I used the box to make a Jeep for the kids

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I know, I know. Too many grille slots. It's to prevent them from suing me. :D

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Hey Jan looking great. Have you run across any parts that are no longer avalible for it? I'm working on the 52 MGtf and can not find differential gears.

So hows the personal projects comming?...lol

Bad boy of VW

65ez camper F/S
Reply to
Kafertoys

So far everything has been available, but I do have to hunt for some stuff. Why is it that nobody seems to carry a complete tuneup kit, like points, condensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor? Just those items have to come from 3 different vendors :D I would think that if you carry a distributor cap and rotor, you might also have a condensor and maybe points... LOL.

I'm also running into parts that were changed somewhere in the middle of the production run, but it has proven impossible to find a reliable way to tell which type this car needs, you have to measure and compare everything to be sure. Wheel bearings, motor mounts, timing chain and guide rails... brake cylinder rebuild kits too.

My own projects... are on ice indefinitely. Well this MB project is going to pay for a sandblaster, compressor, welder...... ;) THEN I can work on my own vehicles. The black convertible is still in Finland, don't have $3000 loose change right now. :( As for the "other" projects... no more kids in the making :D

jan

Reply to
Jan

Can you give me some detail on what you did to clean that cam up? I have a VW cam (NOS at that) that has some surface rust that I need to clean up. Did you hit it with glass beads or some other media?

Thanks,

Reply to
Rusty Shackelford

Yea, glass beaded it in a cabinet. I was being careful not to hit the lobes or bearing surfacxes, you could protect those with masking tape before blasting. I cleaned those separately with wet sanding paper, scotch brite etc...

I also treated the non-machined surfaces with Ospho to prevent future rusting, but I guess that's overkill, considering the cam is pretty well oilede when in the engine :D

Unless the owner lets it sit for another 25+ years after I put it back together... lol

Reply to
Jan

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