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Re: OT rototiller won't start

my 2 cents worth has worked on several small engines with great success.

if no fuel, it needs a new diaphram/gasket under the carb. 4$ at the local store.

no spark, re adjust the magnatron. it is the horseshoe shaped thing next to the flywheel which gives the spark plug it's spark. use a cereal box cardboard as a spacer between it and the flywheel and retighten.

a bad diaphram/gasket under the carb can also cause airleaks and it won't run except at full throttle and not even very well.

check both of these- they are simple to get to and i bet that one of these is the culprit. out of several mowers, tillers, weed eaters over the last few years, these two fixes have gotten them all running.

Reply to
bob
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...................And After you ty all of bobs fixes, Try Pulling it down to the Points/condensor portion and replace, clean and/or adjust them..................Most of the time, After a piece like that sits too long, that's where I find the issue.

Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®

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MUADIB®

Do a search on this string on Dejanews or Google-

3.5 horse Brigs repair help! group:rec.crafts.metalworking group:rec.crafts.metalworking

RedsShakers ( snipped-for-privacy@wmconnect.com) wrote: : Last week at a garage sale i bought a rototiller with a five horse briggs and : stratton for 5 bucks.the guy i got it from said that it just would not start : but he replaced the spark plug and air cleaner. i have worked all week to get : this thing started.i checked the spark and it seems to be their i sprayed carb : cleaner in the carb,and it seems to be geting fuel (wet spark plug)what elese : could be the problem? i thought this would be easy to fix,but its got me : stumped!!also i drained the fuel and refilled it bu did not fill up the tank.

: Kasoma

-- Howard Eisenhauer on ************************************** * * Chebucto Community Network * Can't think of anything cute * Halifax Nova Scotia * to put in here * * * snipped-for-privacy@chebucto.ns.ca **************************************

Reply to
Howard Eisenhauer

Bob's got some good advice there. The following might be of use as well:

For 5 HP Briggs engines, the armature to magnet gap should be between .006 and .010. Larger Briggs units use a .010 to .014 gap. If the gap varies at different locations around the flywheel, worn bearings are likely the cause.

The points and condenser on 5HP motors are usually located under the flywheel. Point gaps for those motors are typically .030 for Briggs and .025 for many others. An old lawnmower repair book on my shelf indicates that wider gaps tend to advance the timing while smaller gaps tend to retard timing. (If it kicks back when you eventually get it running, that would tend to indicate that the gap needs to be closed a tad.)

Tim

bob wrote:

Reply to
The Guy

i'll have to check the points some time. never thought of that.

my experience has always been one of the two aforementioned problems. so far, this has kept me in business. but, alas. today i found out that my rider engine has locked up. 5 years of mowing my sloping yard has finally taken it's toll due to oil starvation.

Reply to
bob

we build our own 5hp based Jr Dragster engines, and one problem we see OFTEN is a tooth or two coming off the cam gear, which will allow the engine to jump time. Pull the clutch assem off, then the side cover, and see if the timing marks line up....if thats not it, I'd check the mag...those things will sometimes produce spark, but not enough of a spark to even light the compressed fuel/air mixture. If you end up needing a cam, or another mag, let me know, we've got boxes of take off stuff...

Nick Long

65 Beetle 66 Beetle (forsale, $400)
Reply to
Nicholas A. Long

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