Sachs Clutch (possible trouble)

I'm 0 for 2 on the Sachs Clutch recently. Stock '66 VW Beetle They start out fine, then the chattering occurs in 1st and reverse gear after a few days. Two mechanics actually drove my car and think it's the Sachs Clutch (pressure plate) and tell me to get rid of that piece of junk and put in the German Clutch. Other's have said Sach clutches are fine, and think I should examine the flywheel for flatness and to take a cut if necessary. New Sachs bearing, clutch disk, and pressure plate. Any other suggestions on what look into? Bent rod?

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima
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Sachs is the nr. 1 german quality product. I would look for a defekt clutchkabel. Maybee some strands of wire a broken. That gives a "spongy" cable. Look for oil on the clutch parts.... bye from Denmark....Michael

Reply to
MIC

The clutch cable is new. It's possible it could be the rear main seal, there is leakage in that area. So I'm now assuming engine oil is getting on the clutch disk, this is causing it to chatter in 1st and reverse gear?

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima

Could it be that the bend in the clutch cable is missing or not large enough (right after it comes out of the tunnel)? Maybe the clutch cable is flopping around in the tunnel?

Remco

Reply to
remco

Could be oil. Bad tranny mounts (frt and rear) will also cause very bad chatter. Or Bowden (flex) tube for cable does not have enough "bend" in it. The friction of the cable inside the Bowden tube acts as a damper.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Is there enough bend in the bowden tube? The flexible tube that the cable goes through between the car body and the "ear" on the side of the gearbox?

It has to have a very clear U shape.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Interesting, learning as I go, but you're the 2nd person to mention the bowden tube and how it has to have the correct bend. That is worth looking into. I also searched the web, and yes the bowden tube has to have the "U" shape. There is a considerable leak at the rear main seal, so it's possible this is causing the chattering problem. The thing that puzzles me is that it was fine when the new clutch was installed, shifted very smooth. Then after a few days it started to chatter in 1st and reverse. I'm leaning towards the leaking of the rear main seal leaking oil on the clutch disk. I figure if it were the bowden tube, then it would have acted up right away. thanks for the help, I'll further look into the possibilities.

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima

I had the same symptom of chattering going into first and reverse. Mine DID turn out to be oil getting on the clutch disk. If you have leakage there then I'd look at that before I started worrying about how much of a bend your bowden tube has in it and the transmission mounts. I mean you're gonna have to fix the leak anyway, right? Might as well fix it and put in a clutch with no oil on it because those things are going to have to be done anyway. If that doesn't fix it, then.......

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Reply to
Shag

I agree with you 100%. What you're saying makes sense to me.

"Stupid people are funny." - me

Reply to
Shag

Thanks Shag for your input, I will fix the leak (new seal) and have a look at the flywheel, at least get an indicator on there to check the runout. Hopefully 3-times a charm.

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima

Whilst the indicator is out, double check the endplay.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Tom as Speedy Jim says also check the endplay on the crankshaft(before you remove the flywheel...when you install the new seal make sure to put some oil or grease on the "lip" of it or the "snout" of the pressure plate(grease if you don't plan on starting it up soon)...a "dry start" on the flywheel seal can distort it and it will never seal properly....also check the area that the seal "rides" on the flywheel snout for burrs or grooves....when the engine is out check the rear transaxle mounts by prying up on the transaxle with a stout prybar...any signs of cracking or dry rot are grounds for replacement...(you need the engine out to replace these so it is a good time to check)....one other thing no one has mentioned is to check that the "arms" on the clutch release "fork" in the transaxle are parallel with each other...if they are not and one of the "arms" is bent it can put an uneven force on the centerring and cause a chatter....

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

I have seen this caused by: bad trans/motor mounts, bad pressure plates, bad/warped clutch discs, badly machined flywheels, bad release bearings or their forks, bad bowden tubes, bad welds or broked clutch tubes inside the tunnel (COMMONLY OVERLOOKED), bad engine freeplay etc.

BTW Sachs makes good stuff usually! JMHO dave (One out of many daves)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

"Bowden tube" -- that was the word I was looking for to describe that bend in the clutch cable. Thanks!

Remco (one of the few remcos:)

Reply to
Remco

plate(grease

Joey, You guys really have great mechanical expertise on VW's, better than the manuals I've been referring to. There are somethings that the manual doesn't tell you, but should know just from experience. thanks again,

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima

Thanks Dave, so many things to look at, some I would have never considered, but will try to pin-point the problem.

-tom

Reply to
Tom Nakashima

I believe the clutch plate in my '66 was replaced with Sach one at

42,000 miles in 2002, as well as the through out bearing and whatever the third part is called. I'm not on 50,000 and all seems fine...

Maybe it is not aligned properly?

-- Howard Rose

1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Deluxe 1964 Austin Mini Super Deluxe
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(cars on website)
Reply to
Howard Rose

you bet Tom...the collective knowledge here in this group is something a manual can never touch....

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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