Super Beetle starting quark

History

I have a 1971 super beetle that runs and starts. The thing that is odd is it will not start with the key. I have to turn the key to start to get the motor turning over with the starter and have to turn the key to run to get it to fire. This has been going on for a few years from what I understand. The thing is that it will not always start on the first try and often gets flooded.

I did find out that the auto choke was shorted once against the doghouse about 6 years ago.

Questions

Could it still be arcing between the carb and the doghouse? Could that have messed with the coil even though it still runs? Could there be something wrong with the voltage regulator? Or could that have messed something completely different?

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe
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I doubt there is arcing and the regulator would not affect this.

It's a bit hard to picture what is going on. Are you saying that the spring return in the Ignition switch/lock is not working, so that you have to manually turn the key from "Start" to "Run"?

Flooding would be a completely separate problem. Flooding is a common problem with these engines in the summer.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

sounds like the coil is only getting voltage when the key is "on" but losing it when turned to "start". Hook up a volt meter or test light between the positive side of the coil primary and ground, and have someone turn the key to start. You should have voltage/light when cranking.

Scott S.

Reply to
compwrench

The ignition is working fine. It just will not fire with the key turned to start while the starter is turning the motor.

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

What could be the cause of that if that is the problem?

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

Then the Ignition switch is likely bad.

Replacement is *not* fun.

See this guide:

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Your '71 is the last year which has the non-plugin switch.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

guide:

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Could the short from the auto choke wire have caused it? Is there a way to test the switch? Sorry for the questions but this has been a 20 year project in the making and I am down to the little things to fix.

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

guide:

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The short might have damaged the switch.

As the other poster suggested, put a 12V test light on the Coil (+) terminal or on the Blk wire at the fuse block. That will show whether power is lost when the key is turned to Start.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

guide:

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Thanks for all the help. It turns out that the switch is shot after all and I found out that I can just replace the switch part with part # VWC-111-905-865-K since the vin number is a 72.

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

guide:

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Ah. Lucky you. But as you will see, you still have to go thru all the rigamarol to get at the switch; it doesn't merely unplug.

See Vic's nice writeup here:

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Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

guide:

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here:

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Ya I noticed that when I took a second look at it. Do you know of a good site with information on tuning the carbs would? And thanks again for your help.

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

guide:

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here:

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Carbs? As in plural? More than one:-)

Stock engine only had one. If you have more, you'll have to post specifics...

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

guide:

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here:

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Just one. Looking to learn how to adjust between too rich and too lean. Currently my bug is running a little too rich. The only label I can find on the carb reads "Interc" and the numbers 1143 right below it on the same label. On the base of the carb it has "32\36DFAV" stamped into it.

Dual carbs won't come till I my bus gets running again. It has been sleeping for 15 years

Reply to
WhatAnnoysMe

guide:

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here:

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That's not the stock carb. Suggest starting a new thread to catch someone's attention who may be familiar with it.

The only adjustment you can make (to any of the carbs) is the idle mixture. This has no effect on running mixtures.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

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