This cooling flap issue has been discussed at length in this group but I wanted to post an additional discussion and question. I have just completed building a VW Trike. The engine is totally exposed in this vehicle, unlike a bug or ghia. I purchased the engine from a builder who, like most, used an aftermarket doghouse style shroud with no cooling flaps. I asked for the best shroud available and he supplied a cad plated Scat, which is supposed to have all the 'correct' internal baffles, but still no flaps or thermostat.
Initially I noted that I had lots of condensation in my breather hoses and a large puddle of water in the breather box after running for a while. I discussed this with a local VW junkie and he suggested I try a 'power pulley' as a simple way to raise the temperature without purchasing and installing flaps and thermostat. I did this, and it has helped significantly - water is now being evaporated and there is very little condensation and foam inside the breather hoses. The oil filler vent is properly connected to the air cleaners, and in addition I connected vent lines and filters to both valve covers (not connected to the air cleaners) as I was experiencing some blow-by as evidenced by an oil film on the engine. The venting of the valve covers and connection of the oil filler breather to the air cleaners has eliminated the oil film on the engine, so I believe crankcase pressure is OK now.
My oil temp, as measured by a VDO temperature gauge with sender at the oil pressure port, measures 130-140 degrees. I think it would measure higher with a sender at the dipstick or drain from what I have read.
I am in the Houston area, so it stays pretty warm all year. Do you think I could get away without the cooling flaps in my configuration, or is the concensus that I should still install them? I ask mainly because of both the temperature environment and open engine configuration of the trike.
Thanks,
Bob