Wanted - Type IV cooling tin

Have '74 1.8L Type IV and want to do Cali upright conversion but cooling tin is totally toast. Must be the combination of battery acid and northern winter salt. Looking for used (can be abused but not rusted thru). Got any gathering dust? Also need 1.7/1.8 72-78 bus or 411/412 heat exchangers. Will trade all the L-Jetronic FI pieces: ECU, injectors, pressure regulators, runners (etc), aluminum pancake fan duct, fan and AC pulley plus alternator. Contact at snipped-for-privacy@cox.net --- I'm in Northern VA but will cover shipping.

Reply to
Wolfgang
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Toss the original tin out. You can't use it. If your budget allows, look into the DTM fiberglass shroud that Jake Raby sells. Jake is THE guy for doing 4-into-1 conversions. Get his conversion video from BugMe videos if you want to see how he does it, first.

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(ask for title "Type 4 conversion", not shownon the website)

I tried looking for 411/412 heat exchangers myself but gave up and decided I'll have to fabricate a pair instead. Which is better for me as my engine is ~160HP and I need good flow outa the heads. Don't use the 72-78 Type-2 heat exchangers.. They won't fit as well as the 411/412 ones due to the turn they make is right where you need to make the cut.

Looks like you can get new 411/412 heat exchangers:

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See page 38 (89 printed) for part# 41.131/41.132 J/P group parts are available in the USA through the brand name "Dansk"

Pop on over to

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and read throughthe "The Type 4rum" and "Aircooled Technology" groups for more 4-into-1info.

Reply to
David Gravereaux

Careful David, he not only CAN use the T4 tin, but he needs TWO SETS of them for the Cali conversion. Plus one set of Type 1 tin.

Granted, he doesn't need ALL of the T4 tin. Just most of it.

I suggest you study the Cali manual to understand what it is all about.

I did the Cali conversion myself. Requires welding and careful cutting and fitting of pieces. Still, I wouldn't call it difficult if you are mechanically experienced.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Ok, section 16, you do need 2 sets of cylinder covers from the T4. Other than that, nothing from the original tin remains.

Watch the section on the heater box conversion. The part numbers should be from a 411/412 not the 72-78 Type-2.

012.256.091M should be 022.256.091 or 070.256.091C 012.256.092M should be 022.256.092 or 070.256.092C

I seriously looked at doing this, but opted for Jake's DTM instead. Yeah, you got me Jan.. I can't say I got that far reading through Joe Cali's manual.

I think "Wolfgang" should check his local bone yards for the T4 tin. But for the heat exchangers, those will be hard to find as the 411/412 wasn't imported to the USA, officially. I couldn't find any going through a Sacramento yard's "used parts search network" thing.

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Reply to
David Gravereaux

Under cylinder tin. The one that bolts on instead of the smaller type 1 "clip on" deflector plates.

I didn't want to use heat exchangers anyway, so I made my own header and exhaust system. I highly recommend buying a complete kit and installing a gas heater. Much more "civilized" from both cabin heat and engine performance perspective.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

...there is a junkyard here local that has 3 oir 5 of the damn ugly things complete.....no I don NOT feel like going and puilling heat exchangers offf of them (or anything else for that matter) I am currently working 2 jobs and am sure I would lose more money taking a day off to do so than I would make for the aggravation.

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

I'm borderline on that and still fence riding for what I want to do. It sure would be a whole lot easier adding a BN-2. Cutting up Jake's fiberglass DTM shroud to add duct feeds makes me nervous now that I have the engine here. Doing the Cali conversion, you already get the ducts.

Reply to
David Gravereaux

David, Thje DTM cooling system can effectively have ducts placed for heater operation. The job of installing them requires two directional airfoil changes as well as an added deflector to ensure that the airflow is not altered do the the loss of pressure in the plenums of the shroud.

Do not do this modification yourself, or the entire design will be wasted. Send the top portion of the shroud back to me for the mods if you decide to run heat.

I have tested this and know the best possible position and mods for the shroud based on my results..

Reply to
Jake Raby

THXS for info - I've removed most of the tin and the alloy cooling fan/housing/alternator. It looks like a basic T1 engine with all that off and is a lot lighter. It apparently had A/C --- since I found an extra pulley and belt tensioner. Humm big mouse nest over oil cooler. Do I need the big cross brace that was by the fan when installing in a kit car? It must weigh 30 lbs! Now to drill out the 3 screws I wrenched off and clean what little oil/grease on the block off (amazed at how little).

Reply to
Wolfgang

I am flattered, ha. Did you try the T-4 fourm?

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is the place for any T-4 stuff and the guys are great. Hay by the wayyou can purchase the cylinder covers from Sharpbuilt or CSP. The are made offiberglass and work with my design. If I can help let me know. Joe
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Reply to
Joe Cali - Next Generation-USA

Sounds like a plan for me.. I'll contact you by phone. Tnks.

Reply to
David Gravereaux

Sure they were.... They never sold all that well, but I believe they were sold here from 70 thru 74, their last year.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

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