Where to connect the dizzy

I'm installing a mechanical/vacuum advance distributor in my dual port Bug engine with a PICT34. There are 2 vacuum ports on the carb. One points to the left and the other straight back. Which one connects to the vacuum can on the dizzy?

Anybody know for sure? I'm looking forward to getting rid of the 009.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W
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Reply to
Kafertoys

highest point of the metal tube above the top of the float bowl, which would keep the line from being able to siphon fuel into the advance canister on the distributor.

The later models with the plastic housing aircleaner probably don't need the metal tube. The pictures I've found in the owners manual and service literature show the vaccum lines running under the front left clip of the aircleaner housing. That point is well above the top of the float bowl.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

I the only hose my FLAPS had the right size was fuel injection hose and I don't thing it's going to collapse. There isn't much chance of filling the vacuum can with gas since it isn't connected to the float chamber. Thanx for the info on which port to use.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

What you saw was the vac hoses for the air cleaner preheat air control flap. There's two of those. The distributor vacuum line was still metal, and had the bend, for the reasons explained before.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

So you were alive way back in the 30's and helped design and test the VW engine? You mustve been outvoted on that point originally and are now gettting the other engineer's back. Nah nah! That silly thermostat must've fallen by the wayside a long time ago too, huh? Lemme guess, .99 cent plastic fuel filter above the distributor, with no clamps and 1/4" rubber hose? Good luck.

Reply to
jeckler

You are so full of shit it isn't funny.

Reply to
Anthony W

You are correct that the line isn't directly hooked to the float chamber, but it is hooked to a circuit in the carburetor that could possibly fill with gasoline should something go wrong, hence the metal tube to keep the line above the fuel level, which would prevent it from getting raw fuel.

Jan - I didn't know the late models also used the metal tube. Good to know.

Anyone have an original metal tube they want to sell? My application is a 1974 super beetle, std trans, DVDA.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

It's highly unlikely that the carb would fill with gas all the way up to the vacuum port. Even then the vacuum advance is only open on one end and it would take a long time for gas to bubble down even if you were trying to fill the can.

Also none of the other cars (or trucks) I've had over the years (and there have been many)have had the vacuum line routed higher that than the vacuum port. All the way from my first truck (a 1949 Studebaker to a couple mid 1980s Fords. The later cars I've had were distributorless and didn't have a vacuum advance.

Admittedly all my years turning wrenches as a pro were as a motorcycle mechanic but I've never seen any auto or truck repair manual mention this as a problem. Even my Yamaha motorcycle has vacuum advance and the hose runs right down the side of the carb from the vacuum port. Bikes are far more prone to filling the carbs with gas because of the gravity feed system and I've never seen one of these bikes with any gas in the vacuum can. Gas in the vacuum can is such a long shot that it's not even worth being concerned about.

Actually the metal tube is cheaper than a hose that runs all the way from the carb to the dizzy.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com kirjoitti:

You can easily fabricate your own from a piece of (new) brake line. They don't even rust easily, and they are easy to bend to shape. That's what I've been doing.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

I believe Jegs sells aluminum fuel line which is supposed to be easy to bend without making kinks. That should work as well, not to mention looking slick.

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Oh, and if you still have fuel filter between the pump and the carb, you can use whooping leftovers to relocate oil filter, and connect pump to carb in a orkasa style.

Anton

Reply to
anton

Having worked on vw for 20 Yr I can tell you that if the bend is not in the vacuum line the vacuum advance unit will fill up with fuel and perish the diaphragm

Reply to
Glenn

I've used an anti-siphon loop for a number of years, I just cut off enough line to make a loop and use a zip-tie to hold it. On the metal line I don't think it's the bend so much as the fact that the highest point in the metal tube is above the fuel level in the carburetor.

Personally, I would like an original VW metal line. Yeah, I could make one but I would rather hold out for an original. I've started looking around.....but when BFY obsolete doesn't list them it generally means it will be a luck-o-the-junkyard type of find.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

Hey Chris I think I can find one around my shop if you can't find it. E-mail me snipped-for-privacy@aol.com I'm not much into selling parts any more, keeping original parts for my customers but I'm willing to sell you one if your tring to keep your engine original.

Mario Vintage Werks resto

Reply to
Kafertoys

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