Heated front seats in a '99 Passat

Hi Group, I have a problem with my '99 Passat. The heater in the drivers seat is not working. The passenger seat works, the fuse is good. Help, the winter is here and leather without heated seats, sucks! Thanks!

Reply to
wjcimbri
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Maybe just the switch or wiring........................ OR Possibly the heating elements inside of that seat! :-(

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Yeah... typically, hopefully just the switch.

But, also mind the MPC (Molex) connector under the seat. Sometimes they pull loose.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
pfjw

Hi, thanks for the information. It is not the switch, and I do not see any loose connections on any of the connectors. It may be the heaters themselves. Need to do a little more troubleshooting. I will keep you posted. Thanks

Yeah... typically, hopefully just the switch.

But, also mind the MPC (Molex) connector under the seat. Sometimes they pull loose.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
wjcimbri

I do not mean just that the connectors separate - individual wires sometimes pull loose from the connectors, or the crimp-connectors are so tightly crimped that they sever the copper down to a few strands, which then burn out with the load. See if you have power *TO* that molex connector, then check for load (resistance) to the actual elements. Betcha that if you have power to the connector you have a failed wire *at* the connector(s), not an actual failed element.

Part of this is trying "in back" of the actual connector at the crimp. A good VOM with sharp probes is your best friend in this sort of search.

VW electrics sub-assemblies are notoriously sloppy, so all of this may come to the same thing in terms of what you have to replace, sadly.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
pfjw

Thanks for the info. I am going to dive into it this weekend. I will let you know how I make out.

I do not mean just that the connectors separate - individual wires sometimes pull loose from the connectors, or the crimp-connectors are so tightly crimped that they sever the copper down to a few strands, which then burn out with the load. See if you have power *TO* that molex connector, then check for load (resistance) to the actual elements. Betcha that if you have power to the connector you have a failed wire *at* the connector(s), not an actual failed element.

Part of this is trying "in back" of the actual connector at the crimp. A good VOM with sharp probes is your best friend in this sort of search.

VW electrics sub-assemblies are notoriously sloppy, so all of this may come to the same thing in terms of what you have to replace, sadly.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
wjcimbri

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