Finally, some success!

I cut out all butt connectors on my O2 sensors wires, and TPS and soldered them all. After several hours of laying on my belly on top of that motor, cussing, sweating into my glasses, talking outloud to
myself, and some "why me lords," and more grunts, I not only soldered these connections, I found two more butt connectors on ground wires on the back of the block. Just inches from the grounds they were bolted to on the engine. One of these wires, a couple more inches down the line, and right where it came out of the bundle the wire looked like a rat had taken a bite out of it. It was damn near busted in half and what was left was very corroded. You think that wasn't a bitch soldering that? I soldered all these, and cleared the ECM. So far, No more code 13's, 22's, or 45's!
As soon as all this was done however, I noticed something new. A rattle. I really don't know if its been there or just started. Revving the motor and letting off [then] there is this frightful rattle as it decelerates. It almost sounds like a tail pipe or muffler rattling against the floor, but its in the engine compartment somewhere. Sounds louder from underneath the engine. My first thought then was a rod was going out. Our truck mechanic at work thinks its a loose wristpin in a piston, but he only gave it a few seconds listen. Then I notices it only happens when its hot, warmed up. Any thoughts?
Hatt
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Check the thin metal around the manifold that collects warm air to feed into the air cleaner on cold days. Those rust and break loose. My old S-10 one is held on by a hose clamp. Since your cleaning up wiring why not buy some of the meruipak pins and run new wire. Those terminals are easy to remove from the plugs with a tiny screwdriver/paperclip, you could get some assorted wire and crimp/solder the new pins on and replace the spliced section.

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A wrist pin will only generally make noise when hot, so he could be right. I've driven small block Chevy's with a bad wrist pin for years like that.

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