Just was going to say I made the switch to Mobil 1 today on my '99 K1500
5.3L with 90K.
I did some looking around google and didn't really come up with a deffinate
answer, should I change the oil and filter at 500 or 1000miles?
would it be ok to just chage the filter and top off at 500 or 1000 miles?
If not, why? (just curious)
What I was looking to do change filter and or oil at 500/1000 miles, then
maybe again at 1000 or 2000miles (depending on how it looks) then go to 3-4K
mile oil changes. sound ok? and here again, should I change oil and filter
while doing the swap?
Also, I was at O'reillys today, and the guy said that the front and rear
differentials already have synthetic in them from the factory, is that
Either way I'm going to change everything over to synthetic anyway, just
thanks for the question and the answer, i was wondering the same thing.
as i too, am thinking of changing over to moble 1
i have a 2000 z71 w/5.3 also.
this group is so great, i have learned alot from it.
I don't know about your diff's, call the dealer and ask if you want to know
for sure. As for the oil/filter, go with what Doc said and do both at 1000
miles. While the filter takes out the big chunks, you will be surprised how
black the oil will be after only 1000 miles. As for change intervals, I
usually do my truck (Mobil 1) between 4000 and 4500 miles. Most of my miles
are in town/metro driving, so not the best conditions. My previous work
vehicle(s) I would drive 45-60K each year, 90% of which was over the road
driving, and I would then comfortably switch oil/filter at 5500 miles
(roughly once a month, 10 or so times a year) and never had any problems,
and the oil was coming out very nice even at those intervals. Driving
habits and conditions do impact your intervals. We had a truck at the camp
I used to run that got it's oil changed roughly every 1000 miles, as those
were about the roughest miles a vehicle could endure.
right, just was curious, I was kinda thinking the guy at the parts store
didn't really know what he was talking about..
anyway, like I said either way, I'm going to use synthetic..
Thanks for the info guys.. Have learned alot here.
Have you thoroughly checked out the liability of Mobil 1 if you switch
You didn't say how many miles your rig has on it. I switched to Mobil
two weeks later I had to rebuild my engine. Mobil 1? I don't know
for sure, but
I talked to my freind who just retired form the National Guard, [he
was a jet
engine mechanic if that says anything, he said, "I, personally would
not have used syn oil], in this, [mine], truck were it mine.
Also, the guy who rebuilt my engine said NO too. He wouldn't warrant
it if I did. In fact he told me to never
use 5w oil again. Not even in winter. And he said, "I don't care
what dealers and manufacturers say." "No oil pressure," he said.
Your oil pressure gauge don't mean shit. [and he went into details of
why, but I forget]. For the record
my truck is an '88. Unknown mileage, but the odo said 95 thousand
when I made
the switch to syn. The engine had been into before by someone, [as
discovered when it went kaput], the crank had been
ground .030 under. Anyway, after Mobile 1, and two weeks, [and before
the rebuild], I lost my cam bearings, main bearings AND the lobes of
the cam were as much as .060 undersize from wear.
Not here to flame, just stating my experience.
The damage was done pre=Mobil 1. I switched my truck 2 years ago, I
think, at 90,000 or so, maybe higher. No complaints, nothing has
failed, nothing burns, nothing drips. 5w-30 goes in, that's the
weight listed on the oil cap...
I'm glad you've had a good experience, and I believe you are probably
about damage pre Mobile 1. I did experience some leaking after Mobile
and I understood that I might, before I switched. I chose to make the
and can't blame anyone but myself at this point. However for me, the
would not make sense then, does not make sense now, cause, as I said,
engine rebuild is not warranted if I use it.
It has been suggested that Mobile 1 accelerated pre Mobile 1 damage,
in my engine. If thats true, I choose to look on the bright side, in
that it forced me
to get an engine rebuild sooner, rather than later. Perhaps if I'd
immediately after buying the truck last Feb. I would not have had to
4 thousand in repairs to the outside of the engine that did nothing to
inside of that engine.
As regards 5w oil, well, my engine won't be warranted there either, if
I use it.
For what is already commonly known about dealership practice, and
practice for that matter, I think many might be suspicious of why
there is a
recommendation to use 5w oil. I know why others "say" a person
don't hold water with me. 5w oil "is" water, and 10w is pretty close
too. In winter?
Well, in winter, if below zero either use a heater on the engine, or
keep it in the garage. Thats
Can't keep it in the garage, can't run a heater. Would be dragging an
extension cord the length of our 60 foot driveway to plug the truck
in. As I said, no problems with what I've been using, so I'll just
stick with it. I'd certainly use what my engine guy told me to use if
he told me he'd void the warranty if I used anything else, but I'm not
sure why he's not liking Mobil 1. This link may have been posted in
this group, may have been another group, but I'll link it again.
Haven't seen the link yet. Is it safe to go there with Internet
Explorer and active scripting and active X?
As pertains to oil in this case, he's an old timer, like me and my jet
buddy. None of us believes in anything until its proven and proven
Thats fine cause they are both Mozilla compatible, anyway, my IE
browser headers says so.
p.s. If you are talking about Netscape, I believe the most current
version supports active X.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
Very interesting. However, I stopped when they said they weren't
to risk the engine to test.
I also have a 99 Z71. I thought Ian would have had some input here but
since he didn't, here's my 02. Check your owner's manual first. Your front
differential has regular gear lube - if you change to synthetic, you should
change the plastic vent cap also. Your rear differential has synthetic and
has to have synthetic put back in it. If you change your transfer case
fluid, and you have the automatic shift, (buttons on the dash) you have to
use GM's auto trak fluid. Lots of guys swear by Mobil 1 and maybe I would
too, but my truck, like yours, has over 90k miles. It doesn't use a drop of
oil. I figure the truck will wear out before the motor gives up so I can't
pay triple the cost for oil changes. Guys in the racing business might see
some "real" benefit from synthetic oil but I'll just stay with the factory
requirements. Like I said, just my 02. . . . .
Good info, George. It's Thanksgiving weekend up here in Canada, so
haven't been on the newsgroups as much. One small change to your
info...you can have buttons on the dash, and still have t/case that
uses ATF. What you are looking for is the "Auto4hi" button. That
signifies a t/case that uses the clutch packs to engage the front
driveshaft. Which needs autotrak.
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