NO HEAT !

Well, it's that time of the year again...time to defrost the windshield. Problem is...is that I have no heat . *sob*
My temp gauge is working fine. It's in the usual place after it warms up.
I had a new waterpump put on about a year ago...so everything should be working fine on that end.
When I turn the knob from blue to red (cold to hot) to get some heat...I'm not feeling any resistance. I'm guessing that something is going on with a cable or whatever it is that will make the cool air turn to heat. I pulled the glove box down to see if I could find anything wrong, but I didn't see anything that would give me a clue as to something not being hooked up right or anything that could have come loose.
Any ideas?
Thanks =)
Brrrrrrr
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Well...it's that time of year again...time to defrost the windshield in the mornings. Thing is...is that I have no heat.
My temp gauge is in the normal place when it warms up. I had a new waterpump installed about a year ago, so everything should be okay on that end. When I turn the knob from blue to red (cold to hot) to get some warm air...I'm not feeling any resistance. So, I'm guessing maybe a cable is loose/off, or something is going wrong there. I've taken the glove box down to see if I could find anything wrong there, but did not.
It's a 1998 Blazer.
Any suggestions?
Thanks =)
Brrrrr
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OKay...major bummer. I drove the truck until it was warm, parked it, shut it off, checked the hoses going in thru the firewall. Facing the windshield, the hose on the left was warm. The hose on the right was not. Heater core problem, right?
What's next?
Still freezing.
Blondie wrote:

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I had the same problem on my 98 Jimmy a month ago The experts in here suggested I get a rad flush and to flush out the heater core. As it turns out the heat to the windshield (defrost) was restored. Apparently the rad fluid( Dextron the red stuff) will turn to sludge and clog the heater-core I made the guy at the rad shop disconnect heater hoses and blow air in and sure enough the Dextron sludge came shooting out. I found out in here that this is common on these trucks Sam

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I had heard that the stuff crystalizes. Do we have to run the Dextron or is there a choice?
I think that's what I'll have to do...have someone flush it.
Thx
Sam wrote:

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Ooops! Wrong word.
I bought the truck almost 2 years ago. The first thing I replaced was a waterpump. Since then, I aways keep it serviced, but haven't flushed the system as of yet. From what I understand, I should back-flush it and I could do this myself by using a garden hose. Anyone care to instruct me or point me to where I can find that info? Also, I've heard about "burping" your system. What exactly is that?
Thanks!
"Doc" wrote:

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Thanks Doc. I have a couple of questions...
Why do I have to drain the radiator?
How much pressure should I allow into the OUT side of the heater core?
If I'm flushing it with water, how do I get the water out of the heater core when I'm finished, or does that matter?
Do you know how to "burp" it? Or do I need to worry about this?
"Doc" wrote:

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Inline....................

To get the old fluid out as it is most certainly in need of a change! Not necessary for a backflush of the heater core, but recommended by yours truly.

As much as your garden hose will put out!

You could blow it out with compressed air if you have an air compressor and a blow gun, or suck it out with a shop vac, but it really isn't necessary as it'll just mix with the <new> coolant when you refill and won't dilute the mixture too much.

Yeah, this is really easy to do. Burping the system just allows the air trapped in the system to escape. The easiest way to buy a venting rad cap (I prefer the ones made by Stant) for $5 at your nearest parts store. After servicing the system, start the vehicle and allow it to reach operating temp (t-stat OPEN). After the stat opens, pull the lever on the rad cap to "burp" the system to the coolant overflow tank.
Repeat until no more bubbles appear in the coolant tank when you vent it.
Doc
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I'm going to take it in soon and have the whole system flushed.
But anyway...the garden hose wouldn't reach from the back of the house, so I backflushed it by reversing the input hose and finagling it to the output side of the heater core and put a cut off piece of rubber tubing on the input side of the heater core dumping into a plastic bag (to avoid a mess). Fluid came out fine,not much gunk...but it's working fine now.
THANKS!
"Doc" wrote:

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Anyone have any comments about the new yellow coolant that can be used with the green or the orange?
Dave

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