Dodge will fix it ... you may have to chew a little ass ... but they'll
take care of it. BTW, if you think switching to a Ford will fix this
type of B.S. you are sorely mistaken. You will lose your ass on the
sale of the truck you have now ... and you'll pay an average of 5k more
than a comparably equiped Dodge.
I had a Ford truck a few years back. It had the 1 year/12000 mile
warranty. I took the truck in for some issues with the brakes that
were not wear related. The truck had 11750 miles on it. After leaving
it with them for 3 days I went to pick it up and nothing was fixed. By
the time I got back the dealer I had 12050 miles. They refused to fix
it under warranty because I was over the 12k mark.
I'd still own a Ford, just not from them.
18000.00 Canadian Dollars? What is that 25.00 USD? If so, that's a
pretty good deal. Buy the Ford.
I'm just trying to lighten the mood. (Everyone gets so worked up about
the dumbest shit. Did you have any idea how explosive a discussion
rust on YOUR truck would be?). :)
But if it happened on my truck I would be just as pissed as Dale.
Especially if DC won't help him. I bought a 95 Firebird convertible new
and the dealership where I bought it promised to replace the optically
distorted windshield. Well they did but with one much worse. Apprarently
whoever supplied GM with windshields for the Firebird back then had a
serious quality control problem. The dealership refused to put another
one in it. I then appealed to GM who told me they always support their
dealers. So to make a long story short GM was forced to buy the car
back. There were other problems with the car that GM wouldn't fix. I
haven't looked at another GM product since then. And I won't. Why?
Because of the way I was treated by the Pontiac dealer and GM. And
loking at GM's sales and financial info I don't believe I was the only
one. Companies need to be held accountable for the actions of the
dealers. After all the dealers are acting on behalf of these companies.
I was actually just bitching about how out-of-hand some posters on this
NG get. I, too, would be good and pissed about this situation with
DC. Not so pissed, however, to take a bath on trading my truck in for
Cowboys? BWAhahahhahh ahhahah ahahahahahah hahahaha
The only thing more used up than the 'new and improved' QB, is the
Very likely the ONLY Eagles fan in Dallas.
On 8/10/05 12:07 PM, in article email@example.com, "Bob M"
As of Monday, I'm still waiting to hear from Dodge City in Saskatoon, as to
what the dodge rep will do. I did not threaten, or cursed anyone out. Just
told them we got a problem and it's not my fault.
The wife has a 2001 Envoy, bought from North Battleford (where I live close
by) GM dealer. They have been very good and have had good service.
I have had good service from my local dodge dealer, one mechanic is a
friend. Anyhow, couldn't make a deal from the salesman back in 2003, and
went to Saskatoon and got a better deal.
I have had good service done there too.
I still would take my truck there, both dodge dealers.
Nothing built today is 100%. Everyone has had problems of some sort with
On 10 Aug 2005 09:01:01 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Never mind rust. I was worked up because I'm being forced to get new
front and rear bumpers on my 3500 as the result of a guy kissing the
backend of my truck with a Ford Taurus. He hit me hard enough to
shove me into the vehicle in front of me even though I was stopped
with my foot still on the brakes and the wheels locked. No other
damage except the bumpers and the electrical connector on the trailer
My wife had backed into something a couple of years ago and put a one
inch scratch on the rear bumper. When I told her about the accident,
I told her I was getting the rear bumper replaced so she wouldn't have
to feel guilty about scratching "MY" truck anymore. ;-)
There are times when common sense applies and this is one. Yes, the
installer should have known better, but so should you. Anytime the paint and
or the zinc coating is violated, you risk this problem. When I received my
2004, the first thing I did was put the truck up on jack stands and looked
for all those things the factory didn't paint and properly protect. The
factory had done a pretty good job in comparison to both Ford and GM and it
still took me 3 days to dissassemble, paint and reinstall. Ultimately the
vehicle is yours. You bought it and you also bought all the problems or
advantages that come with it. Step up to the mirror and address the guy you
see and tell him to assume responsibility for his actions. Furthermore, if
you use this as justification to switch to Ford and a clearly inferior
product, you are in denial.
Ok Steve: what would you put on your truck to protect it from stone chips?
Like you got to have mud flaps, so you have to drill a couple of holes to
install them, right.
How about protecting the wheel well lips. Do you leave the metal bare and
use touch up the paint once in awhile for any chips???
I'm asking these questions because I'm going to get it painted and not
putting anything back on.
I have the mopar running boards, they are ok and they are mounted to the
underside. They help prevent damage to the rocker panel.
Fmb, suggested xliner, will look into that.
As for assuming responsibility for my actions, you are wrong on that part.
Dodge sold me the wheel well covers, even though they weren't mopar, and
installed them for me. Like if they told me not to put them on and why, I
would of never had them put on. Yesterday, the sales manager told me that
they now realize they should be taken off once in awhile and cleaned. They
are finding out I'm not the only one having trouble. Only mine the paint
started to lift and surface rust is showing up.
And also, they are still installling them.
And I'm not in denial, Ford trucks are not an inferior product.
On 8/9/05 10:59 PM, in article ddc1j6$6qj$01$ email@example.com, "Steve
Personally I would clean out the wheel wells real good and use bed liner
inside them. On the outer lip areas use some clear chip guard spray. It
sprays over the paint and prevents chipping. As for installing the
molding. DON'T use screws. Buy some good 3M trim tape, clean the area
with some alcohol and use a solid strip of tape applied to the edges of
the molding to seal it to the body. That way dirt/salt cannot get behind
it and cause problems. Mud flaps are installed the same way, then one
stainless screw on top and bottom, then clear sealant around both
screws. The big thing is ANY rust MUST be removed and treated before you
do anything. Either grind it all off or cut out and replace it. Leaving
anything behind and you WILL regret it.
All the late model cars use VERY light guage sheet steel to save weight.
However, all the sheet metal is coated at the factory before final paint.
Chips in the paint will not cause rust. Simple touchup paint suffices.
Obviously any chips that deform the metal has the potential to damage the
coating. This coating is also applied to the flooring panels as well. I
think any holes drilled or punched anywhere on the vehicle is a risk and
should not be done. The mudflaps on my '04 CTD are factory flaps and do not
mount to the sheet metal. They have special fasteners that mount to the
plastic polypropolene inner fenders. Some of the responders have mentioned
Rhino liner and other similar products. Yes, they are very good, but they
add a lot of weight and they have the potential to create cavities that can
collect water without detection because of poor bonding due to oil and
grease not properly cleaned first.
My comment about Ford is only partially correct. I apologize. Ford has no
equivelent to the Cummins. The Power Stroke isn't even in the same league.
However, I wasn't thinking about their gas engines. The Ford V8s are much
better that the Dodge competition. Maybe the Hemi will prove itself, but I'm
not buying one yet.
Steve, I have never seen factory installed flaps. All the dodge trucks
sitting in lots have: no mud flaps on them
or rubber mud flaps with the dealers name printed on
apiece of stainless steel attached to the flap.
These flaps, each have 4 hex head screws holding them on. Quess what, they
had to drill holes on the truck wheel well lip to put them on.
Today I seen a customers Ford f350, have chrome wheel well mouldings. Just
like the ones I had on, but instead of screwing them on, they had some sort
of a clip holding them in place.
Steve, I would like to know more about these mud flaps you have, them don't
get screwed on.
What''s a ctd, cummins turbo diesel????
On 8/10/05 2:42 PM, in article dddors$vhl$03$ firstname.lastname@example.org, "Steve
I said factory flaps, not factory installed. I installed them and simply
followed the directions that came with them. I have an '04 3500 dually with
the Cummins. There are no holes in the sheet metal front or back. I believe
I still have the installation directions. I will look for them and make
copies if you like, but these are Dodge rubber mud flaps. Now, I also have a
set new in the box of Husky brand that I bought and I'll give them away free
because of the same problem.
Oh, ok, have to check out the duallys. I had gotten factory flaps, they were
the moulded ones, not the flat black rubber ones.
They have the ram head logo on them and they were in the Dodge asseriories
brochure. They had to have holes drilled to be screwed. Two holes on the
painted surface drilled and couple holes drilled into inside black plastic
That's ok, don't bother looking. I will use the same flaps because the holes
are already drilled. When I get the truck painted, the holes will be not a
On 8/12/05 3:24 PM, in article ddj416$ad2$05$ email@example.com, "Steve
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