new dakota shakes when braking

Warped back rotors is the problem for sure, if only shakes during braking. If it shakes during braking it is warped brakes, steering wheel if front rest of truck if back.

Could be tires as well. Check for balancing and out of round.

"Joe Devola" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:

I have drums on the back, could the rear pads have chips or gouges in them? causing the vibration.

Could be out of round drums...could be out of true rotors... Its covered under warranty....allow them to fix it.

Dakota only had rear disc brakes on some 2004 models, it was dropped for

2005. "

The minute you say "...brake problem...." somebody is going to shout "Warped Rotors". That's been a real problem with dakotas for years. At least, that's what people claim. However, nobody has actually placed a dial indicator on the rotors to find out. People take their trucks back to the dealer claiming the rotors are warped. The dealer either doesn't want to mess with it, or just wants to shut the guy up. So they replace the rotors without checking. Then the same guy comes back in 10K miles screaming about his "warped rotors" again. And the cycle continues.

First, read this:

Second, use a dial indicator and actually check your rotors. Mine have almost 70K miles and they are still well within specs.

Finally, check for the many other things that can cause this symptom: Tie rod ends, steering rack, broken rear spring, etc.

Personally I had the old warped rotor issue. At 23,000 miles they were a mess. Replaced them and got another 55,000 miles on the new front set on my

2000 Dakota. Problem is that dodge uses a very hard semi metalic pad. Still had my original pads with 80 percent left on them. Truck now has 78,000 miles on it. Just did a clean up on the set I bought before and a nice set of new pads. Personally I recommend losing those stock pads before they over heat your rotors.

SCOTT skilled trade UAW

what kind of pads would you recommend replacing them with?

It is all by choice, any good quality pad is suggested. Bosch, Raybestos. I have good luck with Morse, the ceramic ones are nice because they are so much cleaner on your mag rims. Very little brake dust developes on the rims. But if you do alot of towing or hauling, go get yourself a nice new set of crossdrilled and slotted rotors. most they set you back is a $100.00 for the set.And never worry about them again after that.

SCOTT

I'd have to partly disagree with you, Scott. And so does Baer Brakes and Wilwood brakes. Slots and cross drillling is simply for looks, and has no functional value. And, you can't cut a rotor like that. When you get a little wear you have to pitch it and buy a new one. Cross drilled rotors do not last nearly as long as a solid. Mostly because they develop stress cracks around the holes. Rotors with holes and slots will give you worse braking performance than a simple solid surface. The brakes work by converting rotational energy into heat, by way of friction. The greater the surface area, the greater the friction. Make the surface area smaller, and you lose effectiveness. As for pads, I think you're right on. While I was researching pads, one of the manufacturers (can't remember which one) recommended not using ceramics for towing.