Uno ariel & where to get power

The Mk1 Uno used an aerial mounted between the fr> I've an old Fiat Uno 79, but can't find the ariel plug.

Thanks for the info.

My Uno has no outside ariel, my mechanic thought it might be hidden in the screen.

Where can I locate the ignition feed... can you give me a few pointers as to the best place to do this.

thanks

Your email addy bounces, I've copied this from the bounce, so it may be weird formatting.

For low power stuff, ordinary radios/CD players etc, I've taken off the plastic column shroud and picked up a connection from the switched side of the ignition switch and put an in-line fuse immediately after the take off. I assume that people with 120 Watt boom boxes put a relay in to switch the higher power. Strictly speaking there is a fuse for such items on the fuse panel,UK RHD, on the passenger LH side under the dash, problem is that it is such a clutter of wires, and so inaccessible that I gave up on this. I think Haynes manual lists an accessory fuse under fuses.

On the column is the headlight switch, this comes off the Ignition switched supply (headlights go off with ignition off). The coil gets an ignition switched feed but there is no point in bringing it back from there through the bulkhead.

On two Unos Mk1 and Mk2 I've had the ignition switch pack up due to the headlights, heater fan, heated screen, wipers, all going through the switch, a price you pay for the lights not being accidentally left on. I think Fiat should have fitted a headlamp relay like other cars. I've done most Fiat jobs and met most of the problems. One tip, mud collects on the Mk 1's above the pipe from the filler to the tank, under the wing. This wodge of mud stays wet in winter, plus salt on roads, and rots the inner wheel arch near the shock absorber mounting. Water gts in, runs down into the sills, result MOT welding job.

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Boom boxes have a "remote in", which is switched by the head unit (stereo). So they can be wired direct to anything 12 volt and big. Got a 2.8kW unit to fit sometime :-)

I've had quite a few cars where the headlights work with the ignition off. That's fine unless the bleeping thing when you open the door with the lights on fails!

That's what I've neever managed to do, get a wire through from the interior to under the bonnet! I need smaller hands?

Thanks

I'll attempt the challenge..

(Failure)

inner wheel arch near the shock absorber mounting. Water gts in, runs down into the sills, result MOT welding job.

Thanks for the tip, unfortunately, I've just had to weld it for the MOT< if only its last owner had read this newsgroup!

Make sure you also attend to the area around the upper shocker mount, if not the shocker soon comes through the inner wheel arch.

Another useful tip

The winding windows water seal usually has a gap at each end, water gets forced rearwards by the slipstream until it hits the rear upright, from there it is forced downwards and sprays into the lock area, which on the inside hidden face of the door has little (usually no) paint. Door eventually rots around the lock which eventually comes away. Finally the water runs down to the bottom of the door, into the seam and you get a growing line of rust along the lower door. PS don't try taking the winding mechanism with the cable off, it's a major pain in the arse to get it back together, you can make a tool from a hex socket to release the glass, which then just lifts out leaving all the adjustments intact. Now you can, if needed, get at the lock area. I suspect that with the right home made tool you can remove the water seal on its own without disturbing anything else, or chipping the paint and thereby creating another hidden water trap.

Come back here if the engine starts cutting out, or you get water in the boot, or in the passenger footwell. For the latter remember in Italy it's a LHD so you need to know where the unused, unsealed, LHD holes are in the bulkhead.

thanks