what oil is recamended for 200k +

hello everyone, is' t me the jeepney driver. my 93 xj has 210k + on it and i'm using mobil 5w-30 synthetic oil in it. i was just wondering if the high mile or 4x4 oil is better for it. i also notice that other people on this site talks alot about 10w-30 oil. well i live in san diego and the weather is good out here. i just wanted to know what would be better for my xj so i can keep the beast running good if any one can help with some info i thank you

Reply to
jeepney driver via CarKB.com
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With all those miles there has to be some wear. How's the oil pressure anyhow with the 5-30? If I lived there and wanted synthetic I would be using

10-30 as that's what was called for originally. My son and I both use 10-30 dino oil and neither use oil. His 96 is at 15K and my 99 is 96k miles.

JoBo

Reply to
Jo Bo

Congratulations on your decision to use synthetic oil. It is probably part of the reason you have 210K miles.

As for what weight oil to use there is no reason to use 5w-30 in San Diego, you should stay at 10w-30 or perhaps an even heavier oil such as 15w-40 or even 20w-50 because of your warm year-round climate and motor mileage.

Please note that use of the heavier oils may, slightly, lower your gasoline mileage.. .

Reply to
billy ray

I use Vavoline Maxlife 10-40 in my 91 YJ 4.0L. It has 255K miles on it. I've used Vavoline 10-30 since the YJ was new and up until 200K miles. After 200K I switched to Maxlife. I went with the higher weight oil to maintain the oil pressure above 45 psi. My YJ leaks more oil than it burns and I'm down about a quart by the time I reach 3000 miles which happens to be the time I change it.

Reply to
reconair

"jeepney driver via CarKB.com" wrote

I'm spookey of 5w-30 in anything but sub-zero weather.

Returning from Long Beach to San Diego one hot afternoon I parked my Ford (350C motor) for the night. The next AM it turned over a rev then there was a loud pop and it began running on 6 cylinders. Investigation showed that two hydraulic lifters had collapsed over night allowing the push rods to come out of the cup when the motor was cranked. Like you I was using 5w-30 synthetic (Mobile 1). Not any more.

Reply to
Vito

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

I don't understand why you folks would use an oil that technically could void the engine warranty?

If the book calls for 10W30, then using 5W30 is just plain asking for trouble and extra wear due to the thin oil not lubricating or 'staying in' the gaps between friction surfaces.

I can see the difference in my mechanical oil pressure gauge when thin oil is used or my oil gets old and thin.

I used 5W30 once because I got a 'deal' on it. I very quickly changed it back to the proper oil because the pressure was over 5 psi lower on the highway and especially at idle, it dived really low when hot.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

Good question. It also appears to burn up or get used faster. When used it physically 'feels' thinner too.

Maybe that is it. My mechanical oil pressure gauge does read lower when the oil level get low. Every time. I can look at it and know if I will be down a liter. Could be it allows the engine to run hotter??

Don't really know.

Mike

Jerry Bransford wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

to use mobil 5w-30 syenthetic three to four oil changes ago and now i hear a clicking sound at start up and then when it warms up it goes away. the weather out here in san diego in the winter about 43 deg and in the summer it gets about

95 deg. my budy told me it would be better to keep it at synthetic and go back to 10w-30. he also told me it would be good to use "lucas" oil engine treatment. i asked him whats the diffrence from royal purple or red line. can someone help i don't want to blow my motor and i would love to get the fuull potentual out of my jeep thanks again
Reply to
jeepney driver via CarKB.com

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Please define "Temperate Conditions".

My XJ manual and my WJ manual clearly indicate with a chart to use 5w-30 ONLY when the weather is below freezing (32F) and the "Preferred" weight is

10w-30 for weather at 0F and above.

That being said the OP lives in San Diego. I will quote from the NOAA

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" JANUARY WEATHER IN SAN DIEGO

JANUARY IS USUALLY THE COLDEST MONTH OF THE YEAR IN SAN DIEGO AND THE ONLY MONTH WHEN TEMPERATURES BELOW THE FREEZING POINT WERE EXPERIENCED AT THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE. ONLY ON 9 DAYS HAS A READING OF 32 DEGREES OR BELOW BEEN RECORDED SINCE RECORDS BEGAN IN 1872 WITH THE ABSOLUTE LOW OF 25 DEGREES ON JANUARY 7,

1913. THE AVERAGE MINIMUM TEMPERATURE FOR THE MONTH IS 48.9 DEGREES, THE AVERAGE MAXIMUM 65.9 DEGREES AND THE MEAN 57.4 DEGREES. DAYTIME READINGS OFTEN REACH 70 DEGREES AND OCCASIONALLY 80 DEGREES AND ON JANUARY 10 IN 1953 ROSE TO A HIGH OF 88 DEGREES."

In the past 134 years there have been a total of 9 days where the use of

5w-30 would be in the allowed range.

Will lower weight (5w vs. 10w) multi-viscosity oil lead to parts failures? I don't know and I doubt it would in a properly maintained motor in good condition but why intentionally use an improper weight oil?

It took me a long time to change from my belief that in regard to motor oil that thicker was better. I am sure that is based on my age and the vehicles of that era. I am from the pre-ASE era, my mechanics accreditation was based on written and practical exam from Chrysler.

The first step for oil burning, consumption, leaking, and low pressure was to use thicker oil as that usually "cured" the problem. When GM first started recommending 5w-30 oil in the 80s it took the motoring public and professionals by surprise as the trend was the other direction. The biggest seller by far was 10w-40 and the 15w-40 and 20w-50 weights sales were rising. I personally believed in using straight 30 weight diesel oil (Pennzoil Series 3) in the summer to clean sludge from internal engine parts.

This is, however, all historic information jumbled in the dusty corners of my memory. Newer automobile oils, especially the synthetics, contain detergents that actually work and offer superior lubrication and protection for engine parts. In regard to specific applications my concern is that some oils may be too thick. I used 5w-30 in my twin turbo Audi because 0w-30 was unavailable locally!

As mentioned above.... why specifically choose to use an oil thinner than recommended?

Reply to
billy ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Generally speaking.... motor oil additives have not been recommended for years - decades..... as long as you use a good quality oil.

As for the brands you specifically mentioned... well I am no automotive engineer but I have a list, from AUDI, of synthetic oils they have tested and approved for use in their engines.

The thing I found interesting was not what brands were listed but the brands that were NOT approved.

Anyone interested in a copy of this 1 page PDF file just send an e-mail to my listed e-address... just remove the SPAM.

Reply to
billy ray

That chart does not cover the 4 liter engine

Reply to
billy ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Thinner oil could drain from the mains, while parked. Thicker oil than warranted may not be pumped to the bearings fast enough. Oil pressure gauges measure the pressure in the oil galleries, not at the bearings where it counts. Unless you have a race prepared engine with non-stock bearing clearances, and you know exactly what you are doing, it is best to use the oil recommended for street use. For most of the vehicles discussed here, that is 10W30.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Jeep dealers here use Mobil 1 which is graded as a 5w 40. You don't get anything w 30 here.

Dave Milne, Scotland '91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

Reply to
Dave Milne

What oil is called for in your owner's manuals?

Reply to
billy ray

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