OT - Garage Alterations

Now I know this is not on topic, but I figure the assembled wisdom here must include a few people who have faced this conundrum.

I'm moving to a house with a big double garage. However whilst the internal height is sufficient for the 101, the doors are standard

7ftx7ft up and overs.

Has anyone faced this before? How hard is it to increase the height of the door in a brick built garage, and what is the best door to replace it with? plus can anyone recommend a good supplier of said door?

Many thanks

MW

Reply to
mike whiskey
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How high to you need the actual clearance to be? Which variant do you have a GS?

what is the design of the garage? Double with a first floow house above or double with loft.. is so which way around is the roof.. is it gable end above the doors or eves?

Alternatively...... dig 8 inch trenches in to the garage with metal plates you can slide over for "normal" vehicular access.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

In message , mike whiskey writes

Roll up doors can be made in any height you like and will be far more suitable than an up-and-over as they do not intrude into the garage space.

Reply to
hugh

They do need somewhere to roll up into though, provided there's some roof space to put them in then great. I'm thinking of fitting them to my garage so I can fit a hydraulic lift in.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

There are two designs around that I've seen.

One rolls up like a carpet just above the door frame but does require some room, obviously. There's little obstruction elsewhere, however.

The other has larger panels and 'bends' so that it can lie just below the ceiling. It takes up less space above the door frame but does use space over a much larger area of the ceiling. We had one of these that alowed a caravan to be put inside.

Both will give more head room than the conventional up-and-over.

Reply to
Dougal

garage

I've fitted roller doors in my last three workshops and they are great for full access - if cosmetics are not important they can be mounted externally to allow the rolled door ABOVE the opening thus giving full head height. This is often done for shop shutters which are basically the same thing as roller doors.

The only draw back is that they are a huge heat load - large area to allow the heat to escape. I'd like to find some suitable material to roll up as a curtain inside my current door (which is about 16 foot x

18 foot) but it needs to be pretty flexible and light weight to be practical.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

What's wrong with simple hinged double doors? That's what I have and I love them. If you don't need the vehicle through just open one and it lets in less weather. Need an extended work area then just throw a tarp over the top of the doors. I once made up a simple clip on bar to go from the top of one door to the other to support the tarp when I had an extended job that needed the extra space.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

They need space to swing out into, space that for some people is often occupied by other cars or other such stuff, in my case if I had swinging double doors I'd lose the pinzgauer's parking space.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

For me they would need rather sharply rising hinges as my drives rises up at quite a slope.

Reply to
hugh

message

mounted

basically

You cannot open the door unless you park a door width away from it, so reduces use of the apron, also not too good in high winds as they thrash about. They also get rather cumbersome when they are 16 foot tall.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Bifold or contertina an option? You still need to able to get to the door so there must be a couple of foot gap that a bifold door could swing into. have them full extension for the extra space if required?

Bifold is an option I might go for to replace the nasty up 'n over that I currently have. That or a roller door but I suspect they are some what more expensive.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Wow 16 foot high, that's impressive, some ground clearance your Land Rover must have. Or do you drive in with a roof tent open :-)

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

message

Nope - it's so I can get my JCB 3CX in - or at least either the front or back as there's a cross truss 4 metres into the workshop with only

9 foot clearance.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

I wish I could get mine in to work on it, another JCB but a JS150LC, another foot and it would.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

In my case, even the up-and-over needs too much space to get it open! To park the pinz in front of the garage the bumper needs to be inches from the door otherwise the end sticks out and gets in the way of the landy's parking space. Luckily the thing in the garage isn't going anywhere soon.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

A sectional up-and-over might be the answer - sort of a hybrid between a roller and a conventional up-and-over. They need zero clearance when opening and the one I fitted to the shed at my last house was only 4" below the trusses. Brief overview below - I expect someone in the UK will sell them.

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Reply to
EMB

That's the sort of thing that we had and that I mentioned earlier. They are (or were) available in the UK.

Reply to
Dougal

But may take up horizontal space just like an up 'n over that could otherwise be used. Of course if the roof void is full of match wood trusses that might not be a problem. B-) Mine isn't and could be a useful storeage space but the up 'n over blocks acess.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

On or around Sun, 18 Jan 2009 11:26:56 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice" enlightened us thusly:

you can do the sectional thing sideways, have it on overhead tracks. Then, of course, it precludes hanging things on part of the wall.

You can get the tracks and wheels separately, and make the panels.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:21:41 -0000, "Andrew Mawson" enlightened us thusly:

that's the problem I've got. I need to get places a 3C[insert roman numeral here] wouldn't get to. Small tracked machine would be ideal - but it's probably better to hire one for the weekend occasionally.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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