Question on Axles & wanted...

Ive got LWB brakes and a servo on the front of my SWB. Makes a huge improvement to the crappy original spec ones! Stops better than my car now!

On the LWB axles i got (which were off an '82 vehicle), the stub axle,halfshafts(more splines on the outer end) and hubs (more splines, and different stub axle makes it different - later vehicles have grease not oil) were also different.

I ended up keeping my exising SWB axle casing and diff + swivels and swivel assembly. I took the rest of the bits off my donor axle. I could have just swapped the whole thing but i had good swivels and didnt want to undo the U-bolts and prop/diff.

If your LWB axles are earlier then i think that they have the same hubs and stub axles, and the only difference is indeed the backplates and drums. Halfshafts may also differ (no of splines again)

Also - LWB vehicles (S3 ones atleast) generally have salisbury rear axles (different diff and shaped casing). these are heavier duty than the normal diffs. You can tell if you have one as it will be bigger and more rounded than your front diff. This might also be considered an improvement. If you do have a salisbury rear axel, then somoebody has gone to the trouble of moving the spring mounts (different on LWB vehicles), and it would be a shame to let that go to waste IMO!

I would say that LWB brakes would be a worthy improvement to your vehicle. If i were you I would rebuild your axles, keeping them at the exisiting spec. It is easy to take the diff out and examine it for obvious wear/damage.

If you buy another set you may end up in the same boat - another axle of unknown quality!

If you go the route of buying swivel gaitors (to hide them), then, assuming that your swivel seals dont seal, you can also buy grease to put in the swivels rather than oil (which will leak out). Sold as one-shot grease.

Like i said, if you do this then check the bits are the same as you may end up swapping hubs too, and therefore halfshafts and other bits!

Steve,

I put LWB Stage 1 axles onto "Percy" my SWB IIa. This involved relocating the rear axles spring pads as the LWB has the springs mounted further out on outriggers rather than directly under the Chassis. The difference in braking along with the Stage 1 servo and pedal unit is remarkable to say the least. Put it this way when it's been a while since I took him for a run I usually manage to launch the back of the passenger seat at the first junction. Normally I'm used to driving a well maintained Rangie or Disco so that should explain the why for the brakes. I'd also ad I have a none standard engine which generates a little more bhp than the standard landie stock item. More about that here...

Your first task is to identify the axles you have. Do you have 11 inch drums on both the rear and front? What diffs to you have? Rover Diff cases tend to be round. whilst the Sailsbury rear axle tends to look a bit like a

50 pence piece. Also may help to count the number of splines on the ends of your half shafts.. Though I personally couldn't tell you which is which some one else here would.

If your in no hurry then Once you have formally ID'd your axles then I'd be inclined to fit new swivels and unless your into serious mud plugging forget the leather gaiters. It's one thing fitting them to avoid a fail at the MOT but they won't stop your leak..assuming you have one.

It's not unknown for just the sub axle ends to be replaced so your actual axle centre and diff may be origional with lwb stubs bolted onto the front.

If you don't know what you have then get a known good axle from a lwb and bung that on. BUT make sure the diff ratios are the same as the rear or it'll all go horribly wrong.

Lee D

I expect so, the 11" brakes do stop better, and are easier to bleed and get set up right. On very late SWB Series 3's 11" dual circuit brakes were fitted as standard. The Stage1V8 and 2.6 had even bigger front brakes than a 109", worth checking that you havn't got these. The 11" drums normally have a chamfer on the outside edge, like the

10" drums. Stage1 and 2.6 have drums that are square, having wider brake shoes fitted, but the back plates are different as well

If the halfshafts are 10 spline, then yes, just the backing plate/cylinders/drums are different. Later axles had 24spline halfshafts, as used on the 90/110. Although the casing may well be the same on these axles, the diff and drive flanges are different for

24spline ones. Also, be aware that later 109" also had sailsbury rear axles, while SWB and earlier LWB had rover diffs. Whilst the brake back plates on sailsbury axles are interchangable, the hubs/halfshafts/drive flanges are not.

If you're not in a hurry, then go for a set of decent secondhand ones, which should give you more than enough parts to make two decent axles.

Alex