RR Classic LPG Sparkplugs

I'd be going 1 range colder than standard (NGK BPR6EY/BPR7EY) and gapping them to 0.8mm for use with LPG.

IMO Magnecor leads are over-rated. I'd be fitting a set of Bosch spiral core leads, but unfortunately I'm not aware of these being available in the UK.

On or around Sun, 13 May 2007 02:29:02 GMT, "CJ" enlightened us thusly:

"any decent quality leads" is the best answer. Magnecor are very good, well-made, and expensive. Personally, the bosch ones I bought from Halfords a few years back I thought were crap. they were cheap, but it showed.

Lucas or champion triple-silicone ones are pretty good though, and considerably less than the magnecors.

In the old days, I used to always fit NGK caps and copper leads, and crimp me own ends on the dizzy end. The NGK caps were the dog's coupling-gear, fitted on the thread of the plug top, not on the nut, never worked loose and had decent seals to keep the wet out. Look at most trils bikes, you'll find 'em. However, it's not so easy to get the bits to do that now.

One of my former motors had screw-in connectors on the dizzy cap, I forget which. Rover 2000, perhaps.

On or around Sun, 13 May 2007 15:11:58 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

I've not seen 'em. I have had bad results from cheap Bosch ones - worked OK initially, but had a tendency to fall apart when pulling the caps off the plugs. I suspect that Bosch have made the mistake of coming down-market.

On or around Sun, 13 May 2007 15:11:58 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

bugger, meant to add that IMHO, the magnecor leads are not so much over-rated as over-priced. I've not seen better quality, but they do cost more than twice what other reasonable leads cost.

Link to their catalogue below that gives details, but it's a 4MB pdf on a slow server so it might not be worth the effort. I'll happily source and send leads to anyone who may want them. Incidentally they do actually honour their 5 year warranty.

No probs with the std heat range NGK plugs (BPR6ES?) on this engine with LPG. Gap plugs to 30 thou (0.75mm for the uneducated, LOL). Personally, the ONLY leads I fit to rover V8 engines are genuine landrover, even on my competition engines. Anything else is either inferior quality or overpriced, even if the quality is good. Std leads will last for years with no probs whatsoever and cost around £36 from your local main-$tealer. I've converted more v8's to gas than I care to think about right now, and I've never had any issues with std leads (the customer is always told that I will replace the leads if I deem it necessary). Badger.

I would like to echo what Badger said about standard ignition leads. I have worked for a number of years on LPG powered stacker trucks. Innitially using points ignition system, and as for any of them, once maintained they were as reliable as you could wish. Always started even in the depths of winter without problem. Eventually the entire fleet got converted to electronic ignition, however this was a cost baised decision, givven labour versus reliability. Any LPG powered vehicle need only be propperly maintained and wonder parts are a waste of money. What ever is standard is fine for normal to arduous duty.

This is my opinion baised on my own experience.

Hope this helps.

Simon

On or around Sun, 13 May 2007 10:20:50 +0100, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

I'd agree about over-priced, but I still reckon the magnecors are better quality than pretty much anything else.

In news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com, Badger wittered on forthwith;

Ever converted a Turbo V8 Rangie?

I'm thinking of having mine done.

Nope, but done plenty of turbo cars, not really any difference. Is it carbs or injection? That makes a BIG difference! Badger.

In news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com, Badger wittered on forthwith;

Injection, Janspeed single turbo, Zytec management for the boost.

To be honest, it's pretty good on fuel anyway, does between 18-25 mpg in normal use.

When I've had LPG Rangies in the past I've been told not to use K&N type cone air filters for some reason, on the turbo one there's no chance of not using a cone filter because the air filter setup is on the other side from a standard Rangie and there's bugger all room to put it anywhere else.

I'm just a bit concerned because it has a lot of induction pipework and a truly huge intercooler, it's got a second row of injectors for full boost and there's not much room to fit yet more injectors for the LPG, but the old gas ring set up would be asking for big, expensive trouble..

Makes life simpler. Does it have lambda probe(s)? If not, could you fit them and run the system in closed-loop? Or does the Zytec system run purely standalone, powering just the second set of injectors? If that's the case, it'd need to be a standalone LPG injection system, running open loop and needing some serious rolling-road mapping!

Pretty remarkable!

Not an issue with LPG injection (SGI) systems.

Indeed, which is why I wouldn't consider such a system. Gas injectors are remote from the manifold, only an m6 threaded nozzle to fit to the manifold then that's piped to the injector banks. Badger.

While you are on the topic badger, I have just (on saturday) got my

101 running on gas (mixers before the carbs)

what plugs would you fit to a 101 v8 running on LPG? I shall go see if richard sells proper LR leads for it and get a set if so. What sort of figure is sensible for the timing? i've stuck a couple of degrees of advance on so far but it is still feels down on power over petrol at the mo and feels slow.

I'm just about to put a DIY leccy ign kit on it too (runs off the points), and was thinking i might replace the coil at the sime time too, since its never been done. Any recommendations on a decent coil to put on it? and should i go for a 12v one and ditch the ballast resistor too?

NGK BPR6ES, gapped at 30 thou.

About 3 or 4 degrees more than std is usually a good starting point. If your

101 has the original low compression engine (8.13:1?) then it will be a touch flat, might need about 6 degrees more but the problem then is that it needs less at higher rpm if high-speed pinking is to be avoided. You could build up a bit of weld on the mechanical advance limit stop in the dizzy to limit the total advance to somewhere around an extra 2 or 3 degrees, with the idle advance increased by about 6 or 7. Has the mixture been set up properly on gas? If it's leaning out it will show a lack of "get-up-and-go" under load. I'd suggest 1.75% CO at idle, 2% at 3000rpm.

Fit a 12 volt coil with no ballast and a 35DLM8 electronic dizy from a later rangie.

Badger.

This engine was only fitted to the 110 90hp V8 for the MOD.

101s had the 9.35:1 135hp RR engine.

AJH

okay. will chase up a set of them!

are you a fan of ngk over other brands too? I am for turbo saabs (get misses under load with other brands in my experience) - but havent been so picky with my n/a cars until now..

Yes, original shonky engine. i'd love a better one but just dont have the time at the mo :( I'ts a touch flat all the time! OK. i can cope with that! I have got the hang of advance/retard capsule adjusting too! (have given my car extra retard so i can take more boost :D )

Mixture has been set up initially - but if this gas kit is anything like my car was its gonna loose its tune like a bastard over the first few tanks of gas as the vaporiser beds in, so i was intending to get it set up again after 500 miles or so - after i've sorted out the ignition system too.

any point buying a fancy coil like the flamethrower ones?

Is that dissy a drop in replacement? or do i need to build a hybird out of the 2 to do it? anybody got one going spare?

It feels like 90hp ;) I can never remember which engine the 101 has

It says on the plate on the side IIRC, i'll double check in the morning.

I certainly use NGK over other brands. I'd be looking for BPR6EY (grooved earth electrode) as they suffer less from spark quenching which is always a bonus in an LPG powered vehicle.

On or around Tue, 15 May 2007 11:07:50 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

Now you're getting technical. I used to prefer non-resistor ones, and to hell with the interference, but modern ignition systems seem to cope better with resistors and resistive leads.