Car audio connectors available?

Folks,

doesn anybody know it it's possible to get hold of the connectors for car audio units? I've got a Becker CD/nav system in my Rover SD1 Vitesse, and it was "installed" by a professional who has made a complete hash of the wiring. He took a standard plug, which comes with about 6 inches of wire on it, and connected each wire to the relevant speaker/power wire from the car using these ugly, fat bullet connectors. This resulted in a big fat mass of bullet connectors that prevents the unit fitting properly into the DIN space in the car, because they take up so much room behind the unit!

He put exactly the same unit in my other identical Vitesse a year or two ago, and I assumed that when he said the unit would protrude half in an inch that this was caused by the age of the car and lack of compatibility with modern units. On this second car I had cause to remove the Becker unit and discover the appalling wiring! If it were wired up

*properly* and tidily it would push in properly!

Anyway, I would like to get hold of one of the connectors that plugs into the back of the unit (it has four rows of 4 connectors, grouped in pairs of rows). I want to get hold of one that has *no* wires already attached so that I can wire the speaker/power/speedo wires directly into it. This will make for a tidy wiring loom behind the unit that won't occupy any space and will allow the unit to push fully into the dashboard!

I get the feeling that these audio unit connectors always come with lengths of wire attached, and that's no good! I can't remove the individual terminals from the casing. I don't want to have to solder the wire ends together or use other intermediate connectors - that's what's causing the current problems.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick
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Best bet would be to have a look at the RS Components site - look for edge connectors. If you find something that looks suitable you might also be able to download a data sheet with exact dimensions, etc.

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However, there is some room behind the radio housing in your SD1, and if a suitable connector with flying leads is available, it could be wired with the harness connectors on the other side of the housing - it's easiest to take off the console side panel to do this.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Ugh, I've spent the whole afternoon wiring the bloomin' thing up! Now my back is killing me after sitting in a twisted position in the car.

I decided to go for the solder option, using some insulation sleeving that I happened to have. This means I haven't got large clumps of bullet connectors, and thus I can pull and feed the groups of wires through as I push in the unit. So, I've managed to get it in without any of the wires taking up excess room behind the unit. Actually I don't think there is *that* much space behind the unit! I cut all the bullet connectors off and soldered the speaker/power lines to the remaining 5 inches of wire on the connector. I then taped together the various groups of wires and fed them through either side of the back of the space. I rerouted the radio aerial and the GPS antenna cable so that they emerged on the appropriate side - minimising the number of wires crossing behind the unit. On the air con cars there are some vacuum lines and an 8-way cable for the fan speed switch occupying some space. These aren't present on the cars which don't have air con.

I discovered that I can't actually get the central console off! I can pull it backwards a certain distance but I can't seem to get it over the handbrake - after spending a lot time forcing the grip off. It seems to be impossible to get the console completely off - very odd!

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick

I must admit I've not tried it with a manual, and in the auto the gear lever has to be in park. But isn't removing the gear lever fairly simple?

Reply to
Dave Plowman

Sorry, I meant the handbrake, not the gear lever!

Michael

Reply to
Michael Kilpatrick

You have to remove the rubber grip - this can be difficult. ;-) If you can get hold of a new one, then just cut it off. Alternately, if you've got some form of syringe - one for re-filling printer ink cartridges is ideal - inject some lubricant.

And the lever has to be pulled up near vertical - easy enough to remove one of the cotters from the operating lever on the drum.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

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