broken key in the ignition 1984 300sd

been having problems with the key for the last few months but then the key broke inside , how do I change the ignition ..bj

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Please tell me it broke with the key turned to the 1 position. I don't know hwo to change it, but I know that if you can't turn the key, it's a LOT of labor.
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If you can't turn the key then raise up the front of the car and wiggle the front wheels (perhaps wiggle is not the right word to use for wheels...) until the ignition lock is unlocked and you can turn the key.
cp
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But how can he turn the key if the key head has broken off and the key is still in it ignition?
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Keep the broken key inside and use a screwdriver to turn it.
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If it's so cleanly broken off at the top then that's a problem indeed.
cp
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thanks for the reply, how do u take out the ignition and change it for another ,bj
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Key in position one... then use a large straightened paper clip and insert into the slot that lined up when in key 1 position... insert and wiggle up and down until fully in.
Then grab the black armor surround and try to turn it counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Once removed, you can them pop out the tumbler.
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The first thing to do is call a locksmith.
When I lived in New York City, my apartment was fortified behind several unpickable locks.
I broke off my key in one of the locks and assumed the door would have to be demolished.
I called a locksmith. He extracted the broken key from the lock within seconds. So much for burglar proof locks.

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Oh I have an idea...rare earth magnet. As far as removing the ignition, I've never done this myself, but apparently you put the key to the number 1 position then stick a pin in a whole that's somewhere in the black metal thing around the ignition to release the spring lock, then unscrew it.
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OK I got the broken key out , but now when I insert the spare key it will not turn at all , not even to pos #1 so where do I go frm here the problem started with a stickey key thanks for your help ..bj
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Well, the stickiness was your signal to replace the tumbler.Now you have to begin the long and tedious process of replacing the whole ignition...here are some instructions I copy and pasted from the archives at mbcoupes.com
Removing the Ignition Tumbler when the key won't turn to "accessory" position..... An alternative way avoiding brute force. (assuming non-airbag equipped vehicles)
The ignition tumbler contains a spring loaded mechanism that locks itself into the ignition lock housing AND the protective cover boss at the same time. This spring loaded lock can be released by inserting an appropriate wire or pin into the hole in the face of the tumbler after having turned the key to the accessory position (middle mark on the black boss surrounding the tumbler).
In order to remove the tumbler, the black boss must be unscrewed from the ignition lock housing. Both the black boss ( the black "ring" surrounding the tumbler is about 1-1/2 " long ) and the face of the tumber are made from hardened steel.
The ignition lock housing is a "T" shape on its side, the long leg being the steering lock plunger, the ignition tumbler on one end of the cross and the ignition switch on the other. The ignition switch (casting) is held to the ignition lock housing by three internal screws under the electrical plug. The electrical plug (plastic) cannot be unplugged (locked) except when the ignition switch is at the accessory position.
Also: the steering lock mounting pin holding the ignition lock housing assembly to the streering column cannot be released until the steering is unlocked The steering cannot be unlocked until the ignition key is turned at least to the accessory position.
Note: In the UNLIKELY event that the steering wheel has NOT been turned to engage the steering lock, TAKE EVERY PRECAUTION NOT TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL. If the steering lock is NOT engaged this procedure will be easier.
Procedure:
- Remove the panel in the footwell under the steering wheel.
- Remove the instrument panel
- Remove the steering wheel. Try not to rely on the steering lock to hold the wheel to undo the bolt.
- Unplug the cruise control harness and the turn signal harness. Facing the dash, these plugs are located at 9 o'clock behind the dash on a bracket attached to the steering column. (One 5 pin, one 14 pin)
- Remove the cruise control/turn signal assembly (three Philips screws) together with the plastic steering column shroud.
- The steering lock is visible once the steering column shroud is removed. The ignition lock housing (casting) is inserted into the tube (black) of the steering column. From the instrument panel opening (or from under the dash) undo the clamp holding the two together and slide it aside. The round locking pin (4mm) of the ignition housing arm is facing outwards from the dash in the black tube. IF the steering column is not locked, depress the spring loaded 4mm pin and push the ignition assembly away from the steering column.
- If the steering lock is engaged, the pin can not be depressed. With a small grinding tool, (drill flex shaft tool or Dremel tool and steel burrs) grind off the top of the 4mm pin. Once clearing the inside of the black tube, push the ignition assembly from the tube. The ignition assembly will be free to rotate somewhat while shifting the assembly from the steering lock tube. It may be helpful to increase clearance by loosening the steering column mounting bolts.
-Once the assembly is free from the steering column, drop the ignition assembly downwards below the dash. The assembly will be still attached to the ignition wiring harness. Some later ignition assemblies will allow the electrical connection to be unplugged. The original ones were locked in place, again requiring the ignition tumbler to be at the accessory position.
If the wiring plug cannot be pulled off, do not force it. Break the casting of the ignition lock housing at the three screw tabs holding the ignition switch. (use a hammer, small air chisel, etc) Once the ignition switch is separated from the holder, the switch can be turned to the accessory position (trial and error) and separate the electrical plug from the switch.
Care should be given to NOT damage the electrical plug for the ignition switch. Everything else is easily replaceable. The ignition switch itself can likely be salvaged if breaking the casting was limited to the body of the ignition lock housing.
To reassemble, new parts required will include: Ignition Lock Housing, Ignition Tumbler (with keys), Ignition Switch (if damaged), Ignition Tumbler Locking Boss. (This last item could be salvaged once on the bench, by smashing the old ignition tumbler from the housing casting.)
Reassembly is the opposite of disasembly. Install the new ignition tumbler last.
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It is a very real possibility that you are screwed.
If this is the case, sacrificing several difficult to destroy parts is required. Your lock cylinder has a thick hardened steel face. The bezel that holds in the lock housing is also hardened.
This has to be ground away to present to the locksmith the softer lock body that can be drilled, so that it can be turned.
As another poster mentioned, the time to remove your lock cylinder was when it first started acting up. Usually by waiting, you insure that the failure is total and complete.
Sometimes a locksmith can coax the lock to turn just one more time. This is not likely however, but it is worth a shot.
Anything less than $400 for parts and labor is a bargain.
I would highly recommend you contact the dealer with your VIN to order a new ignition cylinder coded to your key. If you are in a hurry, you can get an off the shelf lock, but this is a temporary fix, you want to maintain the current keying.
If you are lucky one of the locksmiths in your area will have done this before and you can have him do it,otherwise it is probably to the dealer with you.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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is there a way to get a key or other device to turn ignition on without complete replacement can the tumblers be removed so that a screwdriver can turn ignition on ..thanks bj
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If you can get your key to turn one time into position one, then you can remove the old lock cylinder...
Try using some light weight lubricant (just a dab will do you) and then try jiggling the key until you get it to turn into position one...
Good Luck, Marty
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Yes. As per my earlier post:
------------- If you can't turn the key then raise up the front of the car and wiggle the front wheels (perhaps wiggle is not the right word to use for wheels...) until the ignition lock is unlocked and you can turn the key. -------------
Works great in any car.
cp
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