2003 Corolla windshield removal

Windshield removal is not a typical novice do-it-yourself task. The windshield is held in place with a strong adhesive that is difficult to cut without special tools. If you have the windshield replaced at a body shop, they can tackle the rust and glass on the same trip.

Windshield is a structural part of your car. There is a special high strength adhesive that is applied using heat on oil-free, clean glass and has a strict drive-off time waiting requirement. It is not something the home mechanic should attempt.

I'd recommend an authorized PPG w> There is some surface rust along the metal that meets the top of the

Hey, how about getting one of these reflective nano-technology windshields!!!

Looks cool, but it looks like those are only available for Dodges. I just get a tint with a lifetime warranty.

has several downloadable Toyota factory manuals for free, and they go into detail about windshield replacement. It's held in place by a special 2-part urethane adhesive, that has to be cut through with a wire saw (and a friend). The Toyota manuals may recommend leaving the old urethane adhesive in place in the window frame, but I believe the preferred practice now is to remove as much of the adhesive as possible. The surfaces of the window frame and windshield have to be kept squeaky clean, so you have to wear gloves and clean off everything with denatured alcohol. They also have to be treated with a special primer for the urethane glue. It's really important for the windshield to stick very well to the car because in a collision it holds the passenger side airbag in the proper place (I don' t know about the driver's airbag), and if there's any contamination, such as by the oil from your hands, it may be possible to push out the windshield with just light hand pressure. BTW, urethane adhesive sticks to EVERYTHING, so cover the dashboard and hood area.

Try not to drive the car for at least twice the cure time of the urethane adhesive (it comes in different cure times for different temperatures), or the flexing of the body will make the glue line break. Leave the trim off until you test for water leaks.

I've replaced only two windshields, and the jobs weren't that bad and didn't leak, unlike the replacement done by a glass shop known for scamming insurance companies and giving away coupons for free dinners. They put aluminum tape over the top edge and wanted it left in place for a week, but after they removed it, during the first rain I had to pull over from the freeway because rain was spraying into my eyes. When I went back to their shop that day, I met several other customers also complaining about leaks.

Repainting a window frame with touch-up paint may cause rust to reappear soon because most touch-up paint in spray cans is lacquer, which is a lot more porous to water than enamel is. You can get an auto paint dealer to fill a can for you with enamel. Also use enamel primer, but if you sand down to bare metal, treat it with phosphoric acid metal prep, or get some etching primer, which contains that acid. POR-15, from the Eastwood Co., is probably the best chemical to converting rusty steel into something paintable.

Here's a forum about painting cars and doing body work:

YouTube has some videos about windshield replacement.

Thanks for the information. I didn't even know that there were factory certified glass shops.

How much does windshield quality vary? I once drove a Ford (Carlite) with a rear windshield that had a broken-off Diary Queen nub in the middle, and Ford said it wasn't a defect). And a long time ago, a friend of mine bought a new front windshield for $80 (big IRS cash discount). Its two pieces of glass were misaligned about 1/8", and the edge had no curve or bevel. But it was a major brand (Lear?).

Thanks. I worked it out with a glass place to come and remove the old windshield and then come back to install the new one when I am ready. Should be easier this way for me.

Windshield quality do vary. Pilkington is a European premium brand. Not sure if they make anything for the Toyotas (more like Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Volvo, etc).

If cost is a real factor, Safelite. This is what many insurance cos said to use. But quality is marginal from what I can google. Of course, local glass shop can order an OEM glass, just make sure you ask about drive-off time and the quality of their adhesive.

Or check with PPG. Mercedes used them on E-class. (Probably all Pilkingtons these days.)