92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

The concept of boycotting particular gasoline retailers or wholesalers has never worked and will never work, because the entire market is responding to the laws of supply and demand. With the burgeoning of auto markets in China and India, good luck with controlling demand.

If you want to pay less for gasoline, buy less gasoline. Trade for a more efficient car or drive less, or both. If you can't or won't do that, at least spare us the crackpot ideas.

Mike

"Michael Pardee" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sedona.net:

Even more than that: Oil companies regularly sell base stocks to each other. If one has a glut, they will sell it on the open market.

Boycott one brand, and the others will pick up the slack and experience an INCREASE in demand.

If anything, a boycott of the sort promulgated by the OP could result in HIGHER prices as the non-boycotted suppliers bid up spot prices in an attempt to fill the sudden change in demand caused by the boycott.

And crackpot it is. Also crackpot is the notion that they are sudddenly making a killing on gas and are "controlling" prices.

It's true that, for instance, Exxon has increased their net by some 13% over the last complete fiscal year (from an 8% margin to 9%), but they don't "control prices".

An interesting link, sort of relevant here:

This is just Spam. See:

Anyone have any idea why my 99 tl's factory radio will not play 80 minute cdr's? I put the disk in and I can hear it trying to read the disks, but it ejects after about 20 seconds. 72 minute disks play fine. Is their a setting on my software that I need to select (I'm using Ahead's Nero 5) thanks Mike Allen

When try to start I get click click click....... Broke down in highway.....boosted it and it started.......then half way home bucking like crazy then shut down and now will not start with boost.....click click click

Suggestions? My guess starting motor

Possibly. Also bad battery, bad battery connection, bad cables, bad starter solenoid.

Try this. Turn headlights on. Try the starter. If the headlights do not dim, the starter isn't drawing current or the starter solenoid isn't letting current through. If the headlights dim, the starter is drawing current but bad cables or connections aren't allowing enough current to flow.

See also

"Devils Advocate" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:

Igniter, maybe.

I'm thinking it's a more basic electrical problem. You have two symptoms - failure to crank, and dying when it had been running. My hunch is a connection in the battery wiring or similar.

I am especially puzzled by the sequence. It was running, then died but started with a boost (suggesting the battery wasn't charging even though you were on the highway)... then died with symptoms that are consistent with the voltage fading away, but wouldn't crank even with a boost.

If you reach the point of needing to try *something* I'd recommend replacing the battery (or swapping with another car) and replacing the battery cables - or at least giving them a good inspection and cleaning.

Mike

Ok I didn't get much help with the Integra question...that's ok

My next question is about a Legend coupe, 5 speed, whats your opinion on this car? Could an older example be used daily if it was cared for? Are they pretty nice cars?

Those cd players are bad with burned CD's in general. I find that some batches of blank CD's work much better than others. I have had batches of 80minute cd's that are more or less unusable in the cd player of my TL. I found that personally the novelty blank disks that are completely black work the best in this player. If you see them, pick up a small package and test it out. I have been using the memorex black disks and they work the best for me.

?section=1&SID=1&PID=25&FID=3&opento=2 Also I notice that the problem of reading CD-R's is worst near the end of the disk. Especially those disks that have tons of small tracks near the end with a hidden track as something like track 50-99. On top of this when it's cold and you first start the car is when the player performs the worst with these CD-r's. My torture test is a sub zero day with a burned disk with many tracks.

Today my driver's side power window stopped working. The passenger side power window is intermittent.......I guess depending on how hard I slam my driver's side door. All fuses are good. I can hit on the switch and the passenger side window may work, but the driver's side never does. I suspect the master power window switch.....the one on the drivers side door. It has the MAIN on/off and the two window switches.

Anyone ever had to replace on of these? Where did you get it? I called the dealer and was quoted a price of $160.00....WOW!! Thought I would try an online parts site first, then maybe a salvage yard. Any recommendations???

THANKS!!

they're great cars! I'm on my second Legend coupe.

as with most cars that have relatively high mileage, one should have funds for the parts needed for extending its life.(e.g.: water pump, cv joints, timing belt, radiator, thermostat, power steering pump & hose, a/c, etc.) depending how long you intend on driving it.

My first was the first generation(lots of compliments, sold), and my current one is of the second gen. Which generation were you pertaining?

I got this(and first) Legend bcs I always liked the design. If I wanted just a dependable daily driver with inexpensive parts, I'd get an Accord or some Toyota.

need more info, surf over here...

legend.org

for more newbie and faq,go here... acuraworld.com acura-legend.com

hth, J

Maybe this will help...

In the Nissan 300ZX I used to have the driver's switch for the passenger door became intermittent, so neither switch would close the passenger window (either one would open it, though.) I took the switch out and found the problem was with the way the switch was made. The contacts and the connector were joined by a circuit board - the contacts were swaged onto the board by spreading the forked ends of the contact pieces where they protruded through the board. Where the ends were swaged the connections were intermittent. I soldered all the ends to the board and the switch never gave me any more trouble.

Mike

It's either the switch or the motor/regulator. I had my rear driver window done (98 RL) went to a auto glass place, they did it for $300 dealer wanted over $400. That was for motor/regulator one unit. HTH

make that rear driver side window.

I am pretty sure it is the switch....since the window is intermittent and beating on the armrest makes it work sometimes. I will remove the switch and resolder joints (if accessible) as you suggest.

Thanks!

BC

Michael Pardee wrote:

I have a vague recollection from a couple of years ago that Acura changed the composition of the brake pads for the 2000 TL. At the time, they also said the rotors should be replaced when the pads were changed to the new composition ones.

I am just now coming up on needing to replace my front pads. I have not experienced warping of the original rotors (though I do have to occasionally make a hard stop to scrape the crud off of them - symptom is similar to warpage but goes away after a hard stop). I would like to leave well enough alone under the philosophy of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

So, I have two questions to the group:

1. Has anyone used the new pads without changing the rotors also?

1. If so, how did it work out?

Pls reply to the group.

:? Me and my dad replaced the timing belt lined everything up just like the book said to and it still will not start I have just returned from overseas after being there for a year and my wife said the car just stopped running and wound not start shortly after I left it has been sitting for over a year. I am getting spark and fuel rechecked the timming marks they are also good but still will not start. open to any and all suggestions?