92 Integra - Heater Blower stopped NOT resistor!

With 175k miles on it; you would definitely be prepared for the cv joints, axle shafts, pump, timing belt, powersteering pump & hose, rad, ignitor, just to name a few. I would recommend a compresion check to see if there's still life in the block. At 175k miles ts not bad, my first Gen1 had 180k when I sold it....I just got tired of the power windows getting slow, and one piston ring was weak(little smoke). I would say it still had 40k miles left before some major replacements.(I had a new reman tranny in there at

120k miles...so it was good for another 100k miles)

So I would be concerned for compression and some of the other stuff. For a cheap commuter car...I'd recommend something else....you can probably save more money.

What sports car are you mothballing?

Reply to
James S
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Sounds like th einfamous Main Relay problem of the Honda Accord - maybe the Integra has this too.

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Reply to
MZ

Reply to
B.Creech

Just a safety warning first: be sure to disconnect your battery wires first before you disconnect and clean anything!! Since you are new at this, it might be a good idea to wear safety glasses in case you accidentally short something: The voltage being only 12 to 14V, it will not shock you, but will cause sparks to fly that could throw bit of metal in your eyes.

I am assuming you don't have a "vehicle disable" alarm system. I am also assuming your brother knows how to check for voltage across described points.

Try starting the car by putting it in neutral if it is an automatic car. If it starts, the switch inside the shifter is bad.

Make sure that all your fuses and fuseable links are ok. I don't have the specific schematic to your year, but one fuse is usually labled "IG", "IGN" or something similar -- make sure that one is indeed ok.

Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals. It should read 12 to14 volts. Try and start the car - the voltage may drop, but it should drop much lower than about 10V or so. If the voltage drops more than that, try starting the car with booster cables. If it starts, your battery can't deliver the current to start your car - replace it and see if that fixed it.

Get a piece of wood (a short length of 2x4) and a hammer. Put one end of the

2x4 on the starter, try and start the car and whack the other end of the 2x4 with your hammer. No need to break the starter, so dont hit is hard enough so the case bends. You just want to mechanically shock it while you start it. If it starts, chances are that your starter is bad. Even so, check connections to the starter, etc. Most likely you will need a new starter.

Again, being very careful not to short anything, with a multimeter set to measure at least 12VDC, measure across the fattest connection (usually a thick wire, sometimes the thickness of a pinky) of the starter and to the the engine body. You should see 12V here at all times, regardless whether the key is in or not. If you don't see this voltage, the fat lead does not make contact somewhere between the battery and the starter -- it should be a direct connection, so clean both sides - battery and starter end - and check it again. Before you disconnect anything, disconnect the battery (see safety warning above).

Turn the key to the start position and keep it there, while your brother measures the following: On the starter, measure the voltage from the other (less thick, most likely) contact to the engine body. When the key is turned to start, you should see

12V here. If you see 12V here and the car does not start, you starter (actually the relay on top of the starter) is bad and the starter may need to be replaced. Before you toss the starter, disconnect the battery connections first and clean the connections going to the starter by loosening the nuts on top of the connections and cleaning them with some fine sandpaper.

If you don't see 12V, there are several things that can go wrong, depending whether your car is automatic or stick. Report back with your findings.

Hope this will point you in the right direction. Remco

Reply to
remco

The integra does have one of those, but the car will still run the starter even with that relay bad so that's most likely not it. Remco

Reply to
remco

Btw, the assumption in the procedure is that you are checking the car when it isn't starting, right? To check it while it starts will not help you.

Since it is an intermittent problem, it might be tricky and requires some discernment: i.e. "if the car starts, was it what I just did, or was it due to me jiggling a wire??"

Reply to
remco

Ahh, missed that. Could be the contacts on the solenoid - on my Toyota they need to be replaced occasionally. Cheap and easy fix. MZ

Reply to
MZ

engine and transmission control module repairs guaranteed. us based worldwide shipping reply to snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net with inquiries

Reply to
<djmcreynolds1

WOW! the replies are overwhelming, thank you, thank you, thank you all, for all the responses, I just printed the whole thread out, and I?m going to keeo some tools in my car for when it acts up, I?ll check on these.

Again thank you sooooooooo much.

And BTW i got the response from the leak i got on the front passenger side, but i still have a major pool with fish and all in the rear where the spare tire goes, and even the rear seat (passenger side) is getting wet underneath, any ideas on what it might be, and if so, what solutions; i was going to replace the weather strips all around, but i can?t find them, and ACURA no longer carries them, and i don?t know what to do.

Thanks again

Reply to
p3dro

Trunk leaks are often around the taillights, and those seals should be available (and a bunch cheaper than the lid weatherstrip!) If you drain the pool and fry up all the fish, you can run a hose on each taillight and see if either or both are leaking.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

ok you have what is called a 604 or a 41te transaxle in your voyager. it has EXTERNAL speed sensors that are known to have problems these speed sensors My 99 Plymouth Voyager started having problems the other day with the

Reply to
<djmcreynolds1

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Reply to
<djmcreynolds1

Reply to
<djmcreynolds1

It's an 86 Porsche 944. I've put too much into it just to let it go, and besides I really like it. I figured after the 944, doing maintence on a Legend would seem dirt cheap ;) Just for the sake of comparing, I paid $1500 for the major front end service (water pump/t-belt plus a few other small things). I'd imagine with a Legend you could get that done for under $500, depending who's doing the world.

Reply to
Paddington

Hello, I am currently mulling over purchasing one of the 2 aforementioned vehicles - both 2005's: the Accord EX 4 cylinder or the Acura TSX.

I realize the price is about $ 4-5000 difference in these 2 cars. The Acura dealer told me they could sell me a new TSX (no navigation sys) for $25,400 and that included a moonroof visor. I am pretty sure that is a very good price for those TSX's.

My question to all who could help would be what are the major differences between the 2 vehicles? Does the TSX have a smoother ride than the Accord? I know it has more luxury type features. I also have read some reviews of people who own the TSX & they all seem to absolutely love the car. From the reviews I've read they seem to label it the "almost perfect" car.

But the Accord 4 cyl is pretty good too. Unlike the 6 cyl Accords, it has had little reliability issues, i.e. Transmission, etc.

How about comparing stuff like the sound systems between the 2 vehicles? Is there a big difference?

Any help/ info would be appreciated. The more opinions/ voices heard the better! Thanks!

Reply to
Cowboy Joe

I need to make a decision quick between a 93 Acura Integra RS and a 96 Toyota Tercel (both about 188,000km on the odometer). I know they are very different cars, and both have their appeal to me. I prefer the comfort, performance and feeling of security (from accidents) you get driving the Integra, but I like the economy (gas mileage) of the Tercel. (I drove both around the block, and for what its worth, the Tercel seems to have a very quiet engine and responsive steering). The hanging question to help me decide is which car is more reliable, and does one (ie. the Integra) cost far more than the other when it comes to replacement parts?

I've researched reliability ratings on both these cars on MSN Autos (the Tercel has a better record), but I'm not sure that the stats of one site can be the final word on reliability, and there's nothing there about parts prices. Can anyone answer these questions for certain, from either research or experience? Thanks!

Reply to
Rory Calhoun

I can tell you that Honda parts are usually much cheaper than Toyotas. And Tercels are pretty much stripped. When I was looking for a new one back then, it didn't even have a radio or rear speakers. A wheel cover was an option :)

Though, depending who owned the Integra, it can be in a very bad shape or in very poor shape. If it was the sedan, you might get better deal, as it might not be heavily modded or raced.

Reply to
Nightdude

get an acura after 94, thats would be right decision. even 93 is good too.

Reply to
gts

TSX, hands down. I bought a 2003 Accord in August of 2004. 4 cyl., MT. Very reliable, etc., etc. but not much fun to drive. I use a couple of exits off local interstates as my benchmark (plus any backroad in NW Penna.), and my old VW Jetta blew the doors off this thing.

In December of 2004 my wife got a 2005 TSX, 4 cyl. MT, ouch, what a difference. It was 8-9K more than the Accord, so it sounds like you are getting a good price.

It's superior in every dimension, acceleration, 6 speed MT vs. 5, creature comforts, and of course the handling. It's a little smaller, but if Honda hasn't really changed anything about the design of the Accord I wouldn't recommend it unless you just want reliable. So far it's been great in that regard.

Reply to
jsstuff*nospam*

snipped-for-privacy@posyrorer.mailshell.com (Rory Calhoun) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

If you drove either car "around the block", you are not gettng the true feel of either one. They are definitely aimed at different people with different desires.

We have both a '91 Integra and a '99 Tercel. I've owned the Integra since new, and it currently has almost 246K miles on it. My wife has had the Tercel for a year and a half. It has about 61K miles.

The Integra is faster and has far better handling. Directional stability and steering are much crisper than the Tercel, even with worn bushings in the Integra. The Integra is a *much* more satisfying and entertaining car to drive on account of these things.

The Integra's engine is somewhat coarse over 3,000rpm. The Tercel's is smooth at first, but can get very buzzy at high revs when the engine is worn, worse than the Integra.

The Tercel is NOT a driver's car, unlike the Integra. It bobs and weaves and wallows at over 50mph, a consequence of its cheap suspension and narrow tires. It requires constant steering correction on the highway. Since its intended market is looking for cheap motoring rather than entertainment, this is acceptable to Tercel buyers.

Parts are about the same cost for both cars. Some are cheaper at Acura dealers, others are cheaper at Toyota dealers. Toyota is perhaps slightly less expensive overall. Either are much more expensive than domestics for parts, but with proper care, they last a long long time between breakages.

The Integras brakes require *far* more maintenance than the Tercel's. If you live in a snowy area, you need to service your brakes at least twice per year, or else the rears especially will seize. The Tercel's can safely be serviced once per year in the same environment, and only the fronts at that, since the rears are drums and much more trouble-free.

The Tercel's exhaust went to semi-stainless at one point (don't know what year), and those last forever. The mild-steel ones rust like any other. The Integra will be more likely to have exhaust trouble from corrosion, since they never had semi-stainless.

Both have timing belts that must be replaced after about 6 years. The Integra's engine will probably suffer valve damage if the belt breaks. The Tercel's engine is a different design, so will not. This means you MUST change the Integra's timing belt when the manufacturer says. The Tercel's you can leave until it breaks, as long as you don't mind needing a tow and not making it to work that day.

Other than that, both cars are about equal in reliability and propensity to rust, all other factors being the same.

Under my driving, our Integra gets about 28mpg and the Tercel about 32mpg.

Reply to
TeGGer®

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