95 concorde

Bought a 95 Concord at an auction 1 1/2 years ago. Only problem, so far, has been a blown intake manifold gasket on the 3.5L engine. Intake manifold gaskets on the 3.5 are a known problem, written up in this group regularly. Otherwise, it has been quite satisfactory. Mine also has a 'factory' auxiliary transmission cooler. Picked up a 'factory' shop manual on Ebay for $40, better than any Haynes or Chilton manual.

I have a 95 Eagle Vision Tsi, which is pretty much the same car. Bought it with

54K miles and in a little over 2 years time, it is up to 92K miles. I love this car, and it has been great to me this far. I am not sure what engine this Concorde you are looking at has or what options it has, but the only issues I have had with my car are:

-Water pump replaced at around 57K miles (3.5 engine)

-Timing Belt replaced at the same time

-Brakes at 80K miles

-Transmission work done at 70K miles (only cause it was under warranty and I was picky on how it was shifting)

-Major tuneup (i.e.: spark plugs, wires, filters, throttle bodies cleaned) at 89K miles

All and all, these really are pretty reliable cars. The only things I would keep an eye on are:

-Rack and pinion steering: move the steering wheel back and forth while the car is off and listen for any "pops". If there are then the rack may be going bad.

-Check to see if the Trans has had any service and if so, was Chrysler ATF fluid replaced or used?

-A/C work good? If not the evaperator may be going bad and that is expensive to fix

I hope this information helps, and I wish you good luck in your possible purchase!

In general;

Transmission should be checked out thoroughly. If it's already a rebuild, regard that as a plus, especially if done by a Chrysler dealer or a reputable transmission shop.

Check the steering (but you do say it drives like new). If it is loose or creaks, especially when cold, check for bad bushings at the center of the steering rack assembly.

The LH cars developed a lot of creaks and such over time; most are plastic-on-plastic, and aren't of that great a concern unless they point to collision damage, but you may spend a few weekends trying to track them down and cure them. One of the most annoying noises that afflicts some of them when going over washboard roads is a vibration in the roof panel. From the drivers seat it sounds like it's coming from the trunk. It can be cured by lowering the headliner, just enough to insert a thin, stiff piece of plastic or cardboard or similar between the roof panel and the stiffening brace, so the two can't vibrate against each other. The cardboard backing from a legal pad, cut into two strips, is perfect.

-GP

If you EVER intend to drive at night outside the well-lit city, then test drive it at night, after dark, on an unlit road to make sure your X-ray vision is good enough to live with the absolutely abysmal headlamps.

DS

I have to say, this is the most insightful thing I've seen on usenet in a long time. I have 3 LHS's, and I just tracked down an annoying clunk to the bushings on the steering rack TODAY (I didn't know they put rubber bushings in a tie rod end), and now I've learned how to stop the roof from vibrating. Wow! It's going to be like having a new car....

I have found them to be very, very reliable. But that's how I am with everyth>

Clunking can also be from rear AT mount if it comes from under AT console.