Re: transmission removal

Aug 17, 2003 4 Replies
R



> You did unbolt the torque converter and push it back?
>

That's the kind of info I'm looking for! In the past I've had to remove only manual transmissions. I didn't realize I had to separate anything in there...


In light of the fact that I'll have to put the torque converter back on the replacement unit, will I have to do anything special to assure that the shaft lines up properly during reassembly? I never had to use any of those special pilot tools when replacing clutch discs, although supposedly you can't get the transmission back on without one. Does a similar principle apply to torque converters?

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B

Robbie,

U can also gain clearance by removing the motor mount and bracket from the front of the engine (top/passenger side). Another trick I use is removing the axle extension housing from the transaxle on the passenger housing. Some shops remove the whole K-frame member for clearance-ugh. I never have. Respectfully submitted,

Loren Knighton Woodland, CA.

Under the hood since 1964 Member TRNI IATN

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R

I thought of that, but I didn't want to get into all of that! I took the driver's side ball joint loose and removed the short drive shaft. But I really don't want to have the engine completely loose and floating around on top of a jack...

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D

This may be a repeat, but make sure you remove the two bolts that attach the water pipe to the tranny. I found out the hard way with coolant all over the floor.

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K

I have 155KM on my 97 Caravan no problems. I buy the fluid at a premium from Chrysler and change it all at 40 to 50K. I did the same on my 92 also, no problems. Also both vehicles had/have a trans. cooler. You know, it's cheaper than a transmission. Do you really trust a third party to get the formulation right? I once had a tranny shop tell me they could add an additive to Dextron to make it ATX+3

Ken

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