On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 20:23:59 +0000, "Christopher D. Thompson"
well........just from reading what he writes here, i doubt he'd let me
near his truck. he seems to have a mechanics knack. me, i have a a
nack for messing up anything mechanical. but, i did take my time with
this jumper and i even used real connectors to jump it instead of a
knife and electrical tape.
Mine is acting up as well..... I just did a quick search in google for it
and it came back as $12.92 for the switch here:
I think I'll probably breakdown and just get the new switch. :)
Just don't want to have to rip my door panel apart. :(
Steven, unfortunately, the issue the OP has won't be fixed with that $13
part. That is a door lock switch for the right-front door. Just below that
is window switches, but only for the 3 doors that feed off the power from
the driver's door switch. I couldn't see the driver's door switch assembly
as being offered by RockAuto.
You can go to www.newmoparparts.com and drill down and see the actual switch
assembly for the driver's door is $104 discounted to $83. This assembly
holds all the switches in the driver's door and the one single switch in
that assembly that seems to go bad is the switch that locks out the ability
for passengers to control their own window. It locks out the other door's
switches by turning off the power to those switches. That is great if you
still have booger-pickers and curtain-climbers.
For those of us that don't need this switch, a simple wire jumper between
the two wires going to that switch will act as an 'always enabled' switch.
That is the way I'll go if the switch goes bad again.
Oh, and that doesn't fix all problems, some have issues with the connector
304 in the kick panel or splice 333 under the floor carpet. I hadn't heard
many of those though.
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