how to remove steering rack?

I have a '98 Explorer XLT, and I need to take out the steering rack. I have a Haynes manual, and it says to disconnect the steering input shaft; remove the hoses; remove the power steering cooler; separate the tie-rod ends from the wheel spindle; and remove the steering gear mounting bolts.

Then I'm supposed to be able to rotate the gear forward, slide it to the right as far as possible, and then angle the left end out of the crossmember and remove it. But this just doesn't work. There isn't anywhere near enough room. If I could pull the rack out of the housing, then I might be able to get it out, but I also need to get a new one back in, and I'm guessing that I wouldn't be able to reverse this procedure! Or I could take a hack saw to the thing, but that leaves me with the same problem of how to get the new one back in.

The only other thing I can think of is to remove the oil pan, but step

1 for that is "remove the engine from the vehicle." Is that really necessary? Even if I can leave the engine in the car, one of the exhaust pipes is routed under the pan. Do I need to remove that, too, or is there enough room to slide the pan out around it? (I'm not sure how much clearance there is to what's inside the pan....)

So how the heck am I supposed to get the rack assembly out??!!

Reply to
evonhoene
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Which "right" side are you moving it towards? This sounds like the way that we do them in the shop..... the fit is very close, but they do come out...

On a side note, you did immobilize the steering column to avoid damaging the clock spring, right?

Reply to
Jim Warman

Hi Jim, thanks for responding! Which "right" was what I wondered, too, as I read the manual, but I figured it meant towards the passenger side. Also, the steering shaft input kinda blocks the whole thing from going at all towards the passenger side.

I'm limited in how much I can rotate it because the oil pan is in the way. If I rotate it as far as I can, and then slide it, I can move it an inch or two, but then it gets stuck in the frame at a funny angle. The big mounting bosses keep getting in the way. I can't seem to get any room anywhere to get a better angle, and I need to got several more inches before there's any hope of angling it out.

And yes, I did secure the steering wheel! I just buckled the seat belt through it....

Thanks for your help, Eric

(P.S. - I'll be out of town for a week, so I might not be able to check back and respond. But I appreciate any ideas!)

Reply to
evonhoene

The few racks that we have done in our shop are usually done by one of the general techs, though I am sometimes called to assist for part of it... we're almost into a case of the blind leading the blind....

Seems to me that you have to turn the steering gear input shaft so that the rack is all the way to the right in the housing, as well. I can't be sure but if you have your axle stands under the control arms, you might need to move them to the frame in order for the suspension to hang free...

HTH...

Reply to
Jim Warman

Its been a while but didn't you need to remove the bushings on the gear to make it slide just that 1/2 a inch that you came up short

Reply to
Ollie

therackis all the way to the right in the housing, as well. I can't be sure

I pulled the rack all the way over, but I still haven't made enough room even to free the casting body of the rack. Since I need to go several inches beyond that even, I don't have a lot of hope unless I can really free up the rack somehow.... The main thing is knowing that, yes, really, it's possible to do, without having to do something extreme like remove the oil pan.

thanks, Eric

Reply to
evonhoene

I can't see the car now since I'm out of town, but I don't remember removing any bushings from the gear.... Only the nuts and bolts that held the gear to the frame. Am I missing something?!?

I did try removing the tie-rods from the rack, but (a) I need a bigger wrench than I currently have, and (b) I'd still need to get the new one back in somehow as a complete assembly, so I still need to figure out how to make it fit!

Reply to
evonhoene

Hey, I'm finally back home (for a couple days), and it looks like there are bushings in the way that could make a difference. But they don't seem to come out too easily. I started cutting away at one of them, but there must be an easier way. Any tips on getting them out? I don't know how the bushing is made, so I'm not sure what is actually supposed to come apart....

Do I need to press or hammer out the sleeve (that goes through the casting, that the bolt goes through)? Can I pry any of it out with a screwdriver?

thanks, Eric

Reply to
evonhoene

Just hammer out the center metal part and cut away the rubber part, the new rack comes with new ones iirc

Corrosion and dirt wont make it easy

Reply to
Ollie

newrackcomes with new ones iirc

I might be able to do this, but it looks like the bushings will only come out in one direction, and of course the casting won't turn so that they're accessible that way....

First I want to try removing the linkage at the end of the rack. It looks like if I can take the left one off, then I'll have enough room.... I assume this wasn't part of the "remove tie-rod ends" step. (I already removed that part -- not just from the control arm, but also from this intermediate linkage -- but there's still nowhere close to enough room.) It looks like I need a 37mm wrench to take the ball joint off the rack, and then cross my fingers!!

It also looks like the casting that the oil filter screws onto might need to be removed. That's not a big deal, is it? It looks like just one big bolt should do it. There's probably a gasket under there, huh?

Man, this has turned into a ridiculous job. I'm almost ready to just slap it back together and have it towed to a shop!

Reply to
evonhoene

OK! Big News!

I finally got the rack out of the car! Yippee!!!!

The only way I could get enough room was to remove the tie-rod from the driver side, including the ball joint, and pull the rack all the way over so that the end wasn't sticking out of the casting any. Then I could barely scrape it out of the framerail -- where it promptly got stuck in the starter cable and one of the power steering hoses. But a little "pursuasion" got it past those, and it's out!

Now, I hope getting it back in is a little easier.... I think a big part of it is going to depend on whether or not the new rack comes with the tie rods already assembled. If so, then I'm going to have to disassemble it before I install it, which I'd hate to do -- disrupt the bellows and have to re-torque the tie rods back on. But, we'll see. Either way, I guess I'm going to have to install bellows and tie- rod(s) after its on the vehicle, which means I'm going to have to be careful....

Reply to
evonhoene

Unfortunately, in order to get the new rack back in I had to remove the inner tie-rod and bellows, just as I did to get the old one out. Also, the assembly came with the other hydraulic lines integral to the rack already installed. I'd removed these lines from the old one, which made it easier to get out. Plus, I didn't much care what happened to the old one, since I was replacing it. But since the new one had these lines on it, and I didn't want to mess it up, I ended up taking a couple more parts off the car -- the power steering return hose (which I had previously just disconnected from the cooler and pushed out of the way) and one of the brackets that retains the starter cable. After that, the new rack went in pretty easily.

Since I had to take off the non-reusable clamp that held on the bellows, I just used a couple cable ties to secure it back on. The inner tie rod I just tried to torque back on to about the same as I felt it took to get it off.

Oh, heh, and I almost had the thing completely back together before I remembered to reconnect the steering column! So I had to remove the rack mounting bolts again, but fortunately that was it. Otherwise, getting everything back together was a lot easier than taking it apart. Stretching the teflon seals was weird. I was sure they would break, but of course they didn't. The best way I found to do it was to pull them down over a needle-nose pliers.

Oh, and one other thing I almost forgot!!! There was an obscure instruction for installing the new rack that said that if the system was equipped with a check valve, it needed to be transferred over from the old part. I didn't know what they were talking about, so figured my system didn't have it, until I started trying to figure out how all the seals were supposed to go on (which I decided was not like the original ones were installed...). Anyway, I was staring into the inlet port of the old rack, when it struck me that there was a funny thing down in there. After a few minutes, it finally "clicked" -- the valve! Boy, was I glad that I hadn't either returned the rack yet (which I was planning to do at the same time I got the new one, since there is a $130 core charge) or put the hoses on yet, which would have meant that I would need to buy a new seal kit!!! The valve and a little retainer ring came out without too much effort. I used a pair of skinny needle-nose pliers. The retainer I mostly turned out sort of like a screw. For the valve, I kind of pushed open the valve a little and tried to carefully grab the edge without messing it up too much. Of course, by this time the new rack was already on the car, so I had to install them without seeing exactly what I was doing, but I think it went OK.

I flushed the system (almost according to the directions.....) and did my best to bleed it. I'm not at all sure I got all the air out, since after turning the wheel back and forth about a million times it still made a gurgling sound. But when I cranked the engine up, it seemed to work OK, and no leaks!!

But all is not over -- I took it for a test drive, and the steering pulsates a lot when turning. Mostly when going slowly, but I guess that's when the most assist is required. So, I'm guessing either a) there's still air in the system; or b) I need a new pump, since the old one might have been run too long with low fluid. Any ideas there, anyone?

Reply to
evonhoene

Sounds like quite an adventure. If the old rack was not pulsing but was just leaking I don't see why you'd need a new pump. I'd just drive it a while and see if it purges the rest of any air.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

I had a front brake job done. When I left I had the pulsing. The mechanic laughed that I didn't know this happens often from manually moving the wheels back and forth. It went away as I got home, about 5 miles.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

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