97 Ranger doesn't like to start,etc

I recently got a 97 Ranger, 5 spd, 4 cyl, and it is hard to start. When I want to go somewhere I need to crank it about 10 times, then it finally just starts as though nothing's wrong at all. It doesn't seem to matter what gear it's in or not. This thing has only 32k miles and has done a lot of sitting, especially in the last few years. A few months before I got it my nephews changed the spark plugs, and I suspect they left something off or didn't readjust something as they are well-meaning lads but perhaps not trained mechanics. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I lost the battery hold-down bolt. Does anyone know what size,thread pitch, etc so I can get one at the hardware store?

And finally, how can I modify the doors to accept 6x9 speakers instead of the 5x7 that fit in there now?

Also, avoid the jiffy lube in Corvallis Oregon. bad bad bad.

TIA Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels
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Change your fuel filters, one at the engine the other frame mounted. Plugged filters would account for a hard start, loss of power pulling on long grades.

Regards Gill

Reply to
Gill Elmgren

Reply to
I love Edsels

From what you say now, I would bet $10.00 that it is the fuel filters for sure. The one mounted on the frame can be a pain in the butt to change. Ford puts a plastic cover over the canister for cosmetics. Be sure that the new one come with new plastic clips, these are the locks to hold the fuel line onto the filter.

One thing we know for sure, your fuel pump in the tank is good and has lots of pressure. Otherwise no gasoline would have made its way through the clogged filter.

Regards Gill

Reply to
Gill Elmgren

My plan is to take it to a nearby shop that has a good reputation and have them change the fuel filters, spark plugs and plug wires, after the bottle of injector cleaner. I don't do much myself if I can avoid it, PITA and all that. I have found that if I turn the key so the lights come on and then wait a few seconds it starts easier, but only if it's cold. Once it's warmed up that method doesn't work as well. I have heard the Chilton and Haynes manuals for this vehicle are both lacking - anyone know of something better?

thanks Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels

They may have an injector cleaning system that can be hooked up so the solution circulates through the injectors for several minutes. This will do a much better job than just adding some cleaner to your gas tank.

Reply to
Mark Jones

Helm (distributor of Ford's publication).

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I have two of the books for my 1990 BII and the books are great. They have detailed line drawings and exploded parts views which are much better than the photographs in the Haynes. They also have more information about how the systems are supposed to work.

-D

Reply to
Derrick 'dman' Hudson

Yes when the truck has sat for a few hours some crap in the filter settles, allowing some fuel through. Once the vehicle has been started ( Warm ) the fines have once again become freshly lodged in the filter element. Restricting the fuel flow even further, making for a hard start. Eventually the filter becomes so clogged the engine will refuse to start. The symptoms you describe says it all. Good thing you are taking measures for preventive maitinance, less you be stranded on some remote highway adding the cost of a tow to your problems.

Reply to
Gill Elmgren

Stop the presses! I gotta hot update! If I turn the key forward so the various idiot lights come on, and wait at least 15 seconds, it starts first time. I don't know what that means but it's better that before.

Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels

Hi Gill

I have a 96 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed, I have changed fuel filter, the one down on the frame ... didn't know that it had another where is it located?

Thanks

haven't

mechanics.

Reply to
Eagle Creek

Any brand of fuel filter better than another? Any of the 'name' brands better or worse?

thx Tom Seattle

PS keep avoiding the Jiffy Lube in Corvallis Oregon

Reply to
I love Edsels

Not knowing which fuel system he has in he pick up I used a generic term covering all possibilitys. If it had TBI injection it may have had another inline filter.

Sorry for the confusion. As for which brand of filter is better than other, personally I think there may only be a few company that manufacture the filters co branding. So it would really boil down to economics, buy the cheapest after all the filters would have been manufactured to OEM specs with the filter paper able to filter to so many microns.

Regards Gill

Reply to
Gill Elmgren

Probably what is happening is it takes time for your fuel system to build pressure. It can be a clogged filter or filters, or your fuel pump failing, a bad check valve ball inside the pump, for instance. Incidentally, clogged fuel filters will make the pump work harder, causing premature failure. No way to tell for sure over the computer though.

Spdloader

Reply to
Spdloader

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D On Sat, Jul 10, 2004, 3:49am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@ford.com (I=A0love=A0Edsels) screamed out........

Stop the presses! I gotta hot update! If I turn the key forward so the various idiot lights come on, and wait at least 15 seconds, it starts first time.

I don't know what that means but it's better that before.

Tom Seattle =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Most likely causes......

fuel filter (as stated by others) weak fuel pump fuel pres. regulator sticking injectors electrical relay

Some of the above should exhibit other symptoms than what you've listed so far in the thread.

If you come up with ANY more symptoms... we maybe able to give you some more possibilities.

You need to do a fuel system check BEFORE going any further.

MarshMonster ~:~ =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Reply to
Gary Brown

YET ANOTHER UPDATE!!! I have to wait until the 'check engine' light comes on, then it starts. It's going in to the mech today and I'll post the results.

Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels

I got it fixed today, the PCM relay was going bad. I wonder if the cost of having this done is in line with most average labor charges for this type of thing. labor to diagnose, $129.00 labor to change relay, $71.96 labor total, $201.90 relay, $24.68 .................................... total cost $226.58 .................................... WA sales tax $19.94 ................................... Total w/ tax $246.52

Also, they wanted approx $100 for changing the fuel filter, $37 for the part and about $63 for the labor. I'm getting the feeling that this is a 'full-charge' shop and there's no way around it w/o going elsewhere, but maybe I'm spoiled by having had an older, simpler car and a more casual mechanic for the last 9 years.

Thanks Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels

I work at a Ford Dealership and we charge $80 per hour. That repair would have been a 1.5 hour repair plus parts.

Sean

Reply to
Sean Hawkes

So that would be $120 for labor - and $129 for a diagnosis? BTW, nothing personal but I avoid dealers as much as possible.

Tom Seattle

Reply to
I love Edsels

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