DayStar 1" body lift kit

Jun 10, 2004 7 Replies

My 94 YJ stock body mounts are slowly falling apart. I really don't like to lift the body. IMO it's not really needed especially if you have stock wheels and suspension. However. I want to replace the body mounts and are the DayStar 1 inch body lift kits really noticable? I know the fan cover shroud needs to be moved one inch.



Who has them and how much of a difference is the feel of the Jeep after you lift it. Opinions, good and bad. I did a search on them and it looks like a bunch of promotors so I am not totally convinced.



Are there any alternative body mount kits that are not lifted?



No, just get the black ones and not some funky color.

I have personally installed 4 of them: 3 TJs and 1 CJ-5. You feel a little less body role and ride is about the same.

Yes, you can get stock height rubber or poly.

formatting link
formatting link
(Mightwork with a YJ)

The biggest benefit of getting the Daystar kit besides a small lift is new hardware. This can be really important on an older Jeep. If you want to avoid altering your fan shroud, you can opt to install a 1" motor mount lift in tandem with the body lift.

formatting link
formatting link
Regards,

GK

That is what I wanted to do. I don't want to turn my YJ into a circus clown mobile. :) The red one would do that with my Hunter Green. :)

Less body role. That is interesting. I would have thought more. Okay what about sharp turns. I guess it should be good.

Okay but my hardware is falling apart. I see your next paragraph and that is why I opted with the Daystar kit.

Okay great. I with consider this thanks!

BTW, I saw a YJ with a three inch body lift and I almost died laughing. That is why I am concerned and now I feel a bit better.

Yeah, I feel the same way. Anything over a 1" body lift just looks bad to me and they put unnecessary strain on the body mounts because of the longer hardware. A whole bunch of other things tend to go out of wack too: Gas filler neck, Steering Column, A/C Lines, Brake Lines, Shifters, etc. The 1" lift is pretty unobtrusive.

Good luck,

GK

There are several mount replacement kits out there that do not include a body lift puck. I installed a 1" M.O.R.E. kit last spring and replaced all the insulators, bolts & washers with new factory parts. It was fairly easy to install but be prepared to helicoil the larger side bolts. Two of the bolts on mine took out the threads. One rear one was so frozen it snapped off of it's captive nut and no amount of prodding would get the stub out. I finally just drove the whole contraption out and replaced it with a simple bolt & lockwasher.

Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days in the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".

the hopes they would come out, same kit, M.O.R.E. 1".>

A few days before I started I used an entire can of (very smelly) PB Blaster on them, which helped a bit I suppose. It was weird, the bolts looked awful when they came out and the washers & insulators were all corroded as well. However the body where the mount bolts attach and surrounding areas were rust free & pristine. Rubber parts were fine as well. Two of the larg bolts sucked out the threads from the body attachment points. It was fairly easy to helicoil them and they went right back together without a struggle.

Biggest PITA was the left rear, the head of which snapped clean off. (The right rear nearly did but I was able to coax it on out.) I tried every trick I know of, PB Blaster soak, heat, you name it, the remaining bolt shaft wasn't budging. I couldn't use an easy out because the things couldn't get a good grip and just kept spinning. So, I just used a hole saw in a spot where I could get a nut on top of the new bolt and then drove the entire captve nut, etc. out of its mount. Got the mount on and then used some sealer to hold the old captive nut up & out of the way. Otherwise I'd have had to cut a 1.5" square ole on the bulkhead to get it out.

This is a really easy install...if everything goes right! I ended up doing it twice, once to get the puckes ins talled, a second time to replace all the bolts & washers, etc. I used it as an opportunity to for once have the body lined up on the frame properly. (Jeep managed to have it sitting unsquare on the frame, which always bugged me.

Now, the funniest part, after I got it all together, a day or so later I noticed the right front was lower than the left. I made some measurements and sure enought, when the tub & femders were assemebled in Toledo they didn't get the fenders aligned (right one is lower than the left) so they twisted the grill down on the right to make the gaps at the hood look right! So, when I lifted it off the frame it dropped down 1/2" on the passengers side. I ended up loosening the grille / fender bolts and levelling it so at least the thing doesn't look like it's twisted or drooping, but the gap at the hood & fender on the right side is now noticieablky larger than the left ... Jeep YJ build quality: An oxymoron!

Interesting stuff. I'm sure my luck would have me strip the holes. Watch out for my next thread about installing a Stinger CAT back on a YJ. :)

Thanks for the >> Now don't thell me that, I've been spraying those two bolts for 3 days >in

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required