Diff upgrade for '00 TJ

Maybe the only thing that can be swapped to the front would be the carrier, and that is a big maybe. You;d have to replace the gears, axlehousing, etc....labor and individual parts would make it very expensive.Makes better sense to get a whole new axle assembly for the front.

This doesn;t sound very cost effective, you'd only be able to salvage the differential at best. Frankly, while the front D30 on SWB Jeeps may not be the sexiest front axle, it has a lot of advantages, low weight, ground clearance, etc. For most applications it can be strengthened quite effectively.

The weak point isn't the D30s differential. The axle shafts & u-joints (particularly the 260s on YJs) are what snaps and these can be upgraded using Warn or Superior axle upgrades.

If it was my (non-Rubi) D30 & D44 equipped TJ I'd install Superiors "Super

44" kit in the rear (bigger axle shafts & Detroit) and then build the front axle using Warn's hardened axle shafts and their premium hub kit. Regear to match your tire size.

I once thought that would be cool, too. But that was because I wanted my rear D44 up front and to put something like a Ford 9-inch in the rear.

I think the amount of work (if it is even possible) you're talking about is more than its worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the axle tubes are different sized, as well (in diameter). So you couldn't reuse the front tubes with the 44 pumpkin. And you can use the tubes from the rear, since the rear pumpkin is centered and the front is offset on the driver-side. So you'd have to source some front D44 axle tubes, anyway. And unless you got some out of a TJ, you'd also have to get all the suspension mounts, etc. welded onto those tubes. You'd also need to buy new D44 front axleshafts, as well (or again, find some from a TJ with a front D44, which resricts you to either a junked Rubicon or a custom built front D44 from another TJ.) What you're proposing is just a huge can of worms, and I can't see how it would be cost-effective.

And, in your case, I especially would not do this. If you want a D44 front AND rear, and you already have one in the rear, you'd probably stand a chance of getting away CHEAPER with getting a locker installed in the rear, and buying a 44 for the front. Don't mess with trying to move a perfectly fine rear 44 around.

Do you already have the gears done? If not, you're gonna have to pay someone to crack open that 44 and change out the gears (unless you know how to do it yourself), anyway, and it costs nothing more in labor to get a locker dropped in at the same time.

Just my $0.02.

/Bob

I haven't had anything done with the gears. I have 3.73 from the factory (I think). Do the gears have to be changed with a locker? I have new BFG AT

31" now, and they work really well with this ratio.

I'm really looking for a cost-effective way to get lockers, and still have a daily driver. I've heard a locker in front wouldn't affect driving on the street, but a locker in the back would be noticeable around corners and when it unloads.

Tony

Don't forget that the front axle is steerable and the rear axle isn't steerable... they're not easily swapped in other words. :)

Jerry

My idea sounds like a can of worms (or can of money). My best bet will probably put an EZ locker on the existing front axle.

Thanks all, Tony

I'm actually unsure of which lockers would require re-setting up the gears and which wouldn't. I know some "lunchbox" automatically engaging (read: always on) lockers can just be dropped in without messing with the Ring&Pinion setup. Others do required messing with it, though, as I understand it.

I knew I needed better gears (for my 33" tires and possible future

35") and wanted selectable lockers (ended up with ARBs front and rear), so I just always planned on (and ended up) having the shop do both at the same time, which saved on labor; they only had to open my diff and mess with stuff in it all at once.

A note on putting a locker only in front. Yes, it will be less of a problem in 2high on the road since it won't receive any torque input and will stay unlocked. Yes, a rear automatic locker will drive differently as it unloads around corners. However, if you ever have to engage 4wd (such as on snowy/icy days), that front automatic locker would likely make your jeep a beast to steer. Even if I'd gone the automatic locker route rather than selectable, I would've put one in the rear long before putting one in the front. It's difficult to steer a rig in 4low that's locked in front, especially in high-traction 4x4 environments such as Moab's slickrock.

Ok I'm going to stop now, as I just realized I'm starting to inadvertantly reopen the debate of front vs. rear lockers / selectable vs. automatic lockers. Not a debate I'm trying to restart right now ;-). You can do plenty of google searches of old threads on this NG to see where those sorts of debates have gone. =)

Good luck with what you decide!

I will probably go with an EZ locker up front, hope I don't regret it....

I have 31" tires now, and may go up to 33", depending how often I go wheeling. Would a 4.11 ratio work for this or is there a better choice? What is involved changing the gear ratio (cost/labor)?

Thanks, Tony

appreciated.