Drag link boot cover - '01 TJ

Finding the boot is going to be the tough part. These are normally sold as part of the steering component in question. There are aftermarket replacements made, out of red urethane. Try searching for "prothane tie rod boot" on

I put a set of these on a Toyota LandCruiser. It not only helped with retaining the grease, but they also lookedquite stylish.

If you have good local suppliers, this shouldn't be a problem. If you have an honest repair shop, the labor should be relatively cheap. I have had repair people in the U.S. tell me, that the only way they would replace a ball joint boot, was to replace all four ball joints. Well their kids have to eat too, but there is a limit.

Earle

I was under my TJ yesterday for a visual check (just precautionary) and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

BTW, its a RHD Wrangler (I am in New Zealand).

Thanks TW

--------- '01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto D30/D44

265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS Quick Discos, OME Lift, 1" MML, 1" BL

Hi Earle,

Thanks for a quick reply, I have also found the boots on Quadratec, who = export to NZ

At this =price, I would try the local market on Monday first and see if I can =find something similar. Freight from US would kill the price. I will =also talk to my regular mechanic and see if he can do a favour and not =charge much (normally he is really good). Thanks TW

I also have split/lost one off my drag link. I just grease it a lot.

I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but know the light stuff too. It might do on some, but can you grease the TJ's joints? If you can't grease them regularly, then I wouldn't use it.

I wonder what something like crazy glue or that super weather-strip adhesive or gorilla snot would do on the split. I have extra boots around, just no easy way of putting them on, but a split and glue hmm.....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond.

Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.

Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess.

We used to use super glue on VW Bug boots. All the after-market replacement boots were split since removing the axle to get one on was a major chore. We all used clothespins to hold the edges together while the glue set up but these were reasonable wide flanges with mating grooves so the biggest hassle was keeping them ultra clean when working with them. Last set I put on that way was still intact 5 years later when the poor old bug made its final run to the wrecker.

Just for > I have a heavy duty version of that stuff called 'splicing tape', but

noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

Thanks, that's good to know.

I was even thinking on the new replacement boot getting cut and glued into place. A plastic zip tie around the top and duct tape to hold it while it sets up. Still some acetone or even sunlight dish soap should clean up an old boot. The tree took my boot so I would have to use an old one.

Mike

Will H>

noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. the rubber boot).

Well, it must be a really big pond because New Zealand is not near = Europe....

Anyway, thanks for the input. Had a chat with my local shop today and = he said he could do it in 20 minutes. Rubber boot is replaceable (about = USD 3 for a pair). All up cost, about USD 30 (saves me from getting my = hands greasy in the wet weather).

TW

The actual rubber gasket is fairly cheap but you will have to press the stud out to change it. The rubber boot should be available at a local auto parts store. Might want to ping Dave Milne, he lives over on your side of the pond.

Similar to what I did to replace the joint but just clean it up with some towel and put a new boot on. You would want to squeeze new grease into the joint to force any contaminants out.

Then again, some of the boots on my ZJ have been split for years. I just squeeze lube into them about twice a year and wipe off the excess.

--=20 DougW

My local shop said they could do it in less than 30 minutes, all up cost = with rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my = hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something = similar.

TW

I don't want to take a chance on destroying the joint while trying to get it apart because the sucker costs big bucks. ($120.00 or more here)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >=20

and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has = cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean = grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking = the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot = over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars = for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. = the rubber boot).

Really good idea, I'll keep that in mind for other rubber stuff as well.

TW

and noticed that the rubber boot over the end of the drag link has = cracked. This is the tyre end (steering knuckle joint). There is clean = grease in it, but the boot needs replacing. The FSM talks about taking = the whole drag link off, but do I really need to for changing the boot = over the joint? Any pointers. I just don't want to pay mega dollars = for labour at a shop where the actual part is only a few dollars (i.e. = the rubber boot).

--=20 Will Honea

Had the work done by the local shop. Boot replaced in 10 minutes and $30 (including the boot, grease and labour). Actual boot came from the Jeep dealer (so I guess they do supply them separately).

TW

TW (delete this) wrote:

rubber boot and labour about USD 25/30 (not bad for not getting my hands dirty). I seem to have ripped it on a tree stump or something similar.