Fog Light Advice Please

Jan 27, 2004 9 Replies

I have just replaced my 2000 Wrangler original stock bumper with a Warn Rock Crawler Bumper and I see this as an opportunity to also upgrade the stock fog lights. I am looking for some suggestions. From the homework that I have done, I have discovered that there are many brands and prices for fog lights. I am looking to use my existing wiring and I primarily use my fog lights for additional lighting when trail riding at night. Your advice please. Thanks in advance.


get some cheap "driving" lights, basically the same as fog lights (55w Halogen) but they throw way out in a trapezoid pattern instead of the diffuse short fog light pattern. Cheap means they can be replaced when a lens gets taken out by gravel.

The $19.99 "Rally" driving lights I have get out a good 30 yards past my high beams. I went for cheap because I've thrown more than a few 80 to

100 dollar a pair Hella and KC fog lights in the trash because they wont sell replacement lenses, even a friend who runs a large autobody and custom paint shop couldn't get replacements. You crack a few of those and s*it starts getting expensive.

Best part about them is they're not off-road lights so they there's no requirement to cover them, and they look just like fog lights. Of course you don't want to leave them on while passing someone, they're basically spot high beams. People will go apeshit flashing you with their high beams if you forget to turn them off... not that I've ever done that

For what its worth, in addition to my hellas (rectangular), I have a secondary constant duty relay that 'couples' the high beam filaments AND low beams filaments. With the relay switch ON when the high beams come on the low beams also stay on; when lows are on only the low beams are on - twice the light output!. With the switch off I get only high or low. Since the driving lights are coupled to the low bgeam circuit, I can have all three on - driving/low/high beams. With this intense light pattern and driving at high speed I can actually see the road far in front of me and close to the vehicle.

With this set up you have to be extra careful not to blind oncoming traffic. It may be illegal, but Ive been doing this for the past 30 yrs. without hassle nor heating/cooking any OEM wiring. With the addition of the hellas, I can light the 'world' - just enough to see the Middle Atlantic and New England potholes that show up during the freeze-thaw cycle each year. Nothing beats the hell out of your suspension as hitting a huge pothole at 70+ mph ... with my headlight lighting control system (knock on wood) I can see to avoid these.

(Of course I can w> JeePenn wrote:

Yep same wireing and mounting locations. As someone else put it, you'll win any highbeam war you get into short of the other guy having uncovered offroad lights ;)

Or having 100w bulbs in his/her cheapo fogs/driving lights.

Snow ... "yes officer those 100w bulbs are only 55w's these cheap lights would melt if they were actually 100w's"

Where can I find instructions to 'couple' the high and low beams?

Here is a link on how to wire relays. It is excellent.

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Basically you run a relay for the power to the low beams and use the high beam power to trigger the relay.

I would run a dedicated fused power line for the relay to the low beams and leave the stock wiring alone. That way either the switch or the relay can turn on the lights. If the low beam switch is off, there is no feedback issues when the relay fires the light up.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

JeePenn wrote:

KC Hilites makes a #6314 quad beam kit that keeps the low beam filaments on when the high beams are activated.

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I have it on my '02 TJ, '99 Chevy Van, and also used it on a '94 Chevy Van.

Tom

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