Here's something I've pondered for years... When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I raise the RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole' Carter YF carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the vacuum advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold and canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold ports were all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So, don't quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine besides being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida. All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere. I've torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various head and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with an otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The distributor's new and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I being stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle? o_o_o_o Best Regards, /| ,[_____], Jim, WP3JQ |¯¯¯L --O|||||||O- ()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_) EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
No Measurable Vacuum at Idle???
Feb 23, 2004
15 Replies
Hey Jim, I'm actually in the same situation of thoughts too at this time. I have a '75 CJ5 258. 1 bbl Carter YF. If you have the same, maybe we can work together on this. I have my distributor vacuum line connected to the diagonal port on the carb which points toward cylinders 5 and 6. This port only provides suction once the throttle body plate opens. I've considered going direct to manifold vacuum, but don't know the pro's or con's. If got my carb off right now for a needle/seat, rebuild and adjustment. If you want, when I re-install it, I'll switch the vacuum lines around to check for a difference.
Hmm. I might be stuck and this is the only configuration. I've a YF,
You are tagging a ported vacuum source.
This gives you timing advance with rpm and in my opinion give the engine the best 'punch'.
On the newer ones, they use a manifold vacuum to give the engine a smoother idle for the pollution sniffer and had a computer actually adjusting the timing advance.
When I dumped the computer, I switched over to the ported advance. On manifold vacuum timing my engine has a dead spot when you punch the gas, it bogs down and slowly recovers.
With the timing ported and a punch on the gas pedal, it just perks up and lights up my 33" mud tires in both 1st and 2nd and takes off like a scalded cat.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sDr>
I just checked my book and it looks like you have 2 vacuum nipples. The bottom one is the 'spark' port and the upper one is the 'egr' port. That implies both are ported vacuum to me.
Mike
Dr>
The 258 one uses ported vacuum.
Mike
"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:
Ok Guy's, This is what I've got. I tried switching the vacuum ports. Originally, I had the distributor line connected to the port on the Carter 1 bbl which is supposed to be connected to the (TCS) thing that works off engine temp. It's located mid to lower on the driver's side of the block. Anyways, I moved the vacuum line from this diagonal carb. (no vacuum at idle) port to the "spark" port which supplies manifold vacuum.
I must admit, Intown driving is lot nicer. I've got good acceleration so far (I think better). Seems to not have upper RPM flatness anymore. I'll try it tomorrow on the highway on my way to work. I'm going to post another question that relates to the timing in relation to the vacuum line move.
Thanks all for your various suggestions. By the way, It seems I got the metering rod adjusted correctly, but we'll see tomorrow on the highway.
I should get it weighed. I could pick it up and move it around in the yard while building it up and with 2 people it was super easy, even with the seats, steering stuff and roll bar inside.
But I still could light up my old 31" muds with my old steel body and the old engine and still the 3.31 gears. I just had to work at it and 'try' to spin them.
Now I have to watch pulling out onto the main drag off my street. It is a 60 kph or 40 mph street and if I give too much gas too fast it squawks.
I do have the 2 bbl carb and intake with a hot Accel coil, but that is about it. Straight exhaust pipe with a dynomax super turbo muffler and no cat.
Mike
Dr>
distributor's
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