quit

crank sensor

Tony did pass the time by typing:

Several things, is it getting spark? Also unplug/replug in the CPS sensor.

is everyones crank sensor going out at the same time?

Patrick ?Ô

I used to have an 87 YJ with the 258 and this happened to me. For me it would mysteriously quit, and when it occurred it was right after it started or it would not start. Cranked fine. If I walked away it might or might not decide to be OK again. I replaced the ignition control module and it never happened again. The ICM is a silver colored flat box that is located in the wheel well (driver's side, in with the wheel, if I am remembering right) of all places. I followed the wire to find it. 6 years ago it cost about $50US. It just unbolts and unplugs, easy as cake, once you find it. Hope this might help, Tomes

Don't waste your time looking for the crank sensor (cps). It doesn't have one. Most likely a bad ignition module.

That sounds like either the ignition module or body ground strap have gone bad to me. Because you were in reverse, I would look to the ground first. That is a mesh cable from the engine head to the firewall. I test them by running a booster cable from the battery negative to the firewall and see if they then run.

Mike

T>

The OP doesn't have that type of engine.

Mike

"Patrick ?Ô" wrote:

Tried both things...new module and ground strap still nothing...could it be the coil?

Or the distributor pickup. It should have between 400 to 800 ohms on the orange and purple wires.

The coil primary circuit should have 1.13-1.23 ohms cold and 7700-9300 ohms on the secondary.

Mike

T>

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:

Ya know, the odd thing about measuring coils.. I've tested at least five that measure fine but were actually dead. They all had a high voltage break down and arced out inside. Measure them at 9V with a DMM and they look fine.

That's why I got one of these thingies.