Steering box removal

Yep, you ought to just take the pitman arm off, you will need to anyway if you are doing a rebuild. You sure you are up to the job? Probably ought to just get the seal kit for the particular part of the box that is leaking, and replace that alone. You take that whole thing apart, and you might be there a week trying to get it working again. Or, go with a reman.

Jerry

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Keep in mind that if the surface is bad new seals will just last a short time. If you have larger tires it might be worth getting a more powerfull box. Not sure of what part that would be though.

I've read some write ups and it doens't seem that difficult to replace the seals. I'm more worried about getting the damn thing out and back in. Allen

I did just get 33s and then it started leaking! What do you mean about the surface being bad?? With that napa price,...is there a core charge?? Allen

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Sometimes when seals go bad the metal around the shaft can get scraped up. It's not common and depends a lot on how bad the seal/bushing is.

With Napa there is almost always a core charge. You get that back when they get your old part. Core charges depend on how much demand there is for the reman parts. For example, the core charge on my distributor (80$) was about

with 33s you probably should consider a stronger box. I'm not sure about your application but on some jeeps it was a good idea to put additional bracing on the steering box because it put too much stress on that part of the frame.

You need to remove the pitman arm at the gear box, and need a puller to get it off. Watch for seized bolts at the frame, the weld nuts broke off on a couple of mine. Then there is the hoses... they can be seized also. Take the steering shaft loose at the firewall first. You may need to collapse the shaft... if so it has to be heated in the middle to melt the glue. There is a snap ring inside the gearbox collar that holds the steering shaft boot.

I considered rebuilding mine until saw the number of parts in the rebuild kit ($40)... dozens of o-rings, seals and washers. I went with a re-man box from Advance Auto... ~$170 with core exchange Worth the $130 difference, IMHO.

-- JimG

LOL. When I replace the brake master cylinder on my 88, the part was $19.95, the core charge was $25.00!

I helped Steve Seppala from this group do his box on his YJ, looked the same as my CJ7's.

The pitman arm is bad news to try and take apart!!!

If you use a pickle fork on the drag link rod, there is a very good chance you will take out the tie rod end on it, the grease boot for sure.

You will need a puller and a Big hammer to get the arm off the box. I mean 2+lb sledge.... You need to do this 'before' you unbolt the box, or it won't likely come off. Then because you beat the crap out of the pitman to get it off, it's connection too will need seals and maybe a bearing. (the kit has both)

Steve posted the same as you and I went 'woah now, why are you taking those off?' He only needed the seal for the steering rod done like you.

Turns out he didn't live far from me and I went over and we just dropped the box down and put a new bearing and seal in from the front with the box tipped and hanging on the pitman arm.

It worked great.

Mike

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