I want to disconnect my sway bars for off road outings. I don't want to buy any after market disconnects right now, just want to disconnect when I need and reconnect when I hit the road. I need suggestions. This is on a 95 YJ. Thanks in advance.
Greg
You can just unbolt it at the bottom of the connecting link and zip tie or rope it to the shock tower top I believe, it doesn't take long at all after the first time... Antiseize is 'highly' recommended on the threads and pin when you put it back together.
A friend with his TJ did this all the time. On the TJ one side of the bolt was a torx, the other side a nut. It was easy when I recommended just 'holding' the torx side still and using the wrench on the nut...
Then he got those 'quick disconnects', LOL!
Yup. they disconnected 'quick' alright, but they 'sure' don't call em 'quick connects' for a reason. Sometimes he would need two extra people standing on and/or holding up the bumper to reconnect the suckers.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
Thank you very much. I will try it. Right now I am having a problem removing the link. I got the nuts removed, but they are either really rusted on there or there are other forces at work against me.
Thanks,
Greg
Well I just got the sway bar disconnected, and not to my suprise, my
31 " M/Ts rubbed the flairs when I took it thru a culvert near my home. Well, I have been planning on ordering a lift soon, guess the time is now! Any suggestions on lift height? I will probably at some point run 32's, but for now, until there worn, 31's. Will two inches be enough?Thanks, Greg
Two inch pucks will be plenty for your 31's to get flexy, 3.5" spring system for 32/33's.
Carl
You could also put a 1" BL with 2" pucks and probably clear 32's.
Carl
On my CJ7, 3" was tons to fit 33's without tagging. A YJ would be tighter because it starts off lower.
You can get several type of lifts for it. The most unstable and unsafe one is a shackle lift. This does bad things to the geometry usually and needs much mucking around with shims and such to get right. It also stretches the springs flat quickly. The best is a spring pack replacement.
In between these are a simple re-arch of the springs and a re-arch with a 'keeper' leaf in them. The Keeper is a larger (thicker) spring already tempered into the proper arch for 'say' a 2.5" lift.
I blew out my rear spring packs so needed new ones. I went to a 'truck' spring shop that does dump trucks and semi tractors because they don't sell gold plated springs or use platinum wrenches so they have realistic prices. 4x4 shops are bad rip offs that way.
They got new factory rear spring packs, took them apart and re-arched them for 2.5" lift, then put a keeper spring as a replacement for the first free leaf down. The then took off my stock front spring packs, took them apart, arched them and put a keeper in there too. This 'all' ran me under $500.00 installed and I had to buy my own new shocks to fit.
My 'glass body mounts about 1" higher than a steel one, so I have a bit of 'body lift' on it. You 'can' put lifted body mounts in, but depending on the rust level of the Jeep, this can be really expensive to impossible without serious reconstruction. The body bolts have hidden 'nutserts' or weld nuts inside rails that spin out which makes for big trouble.
Mike
For some reason I thought this was a TJ.
Sorry,
Carl
I just came in from reconnecting them, and I won't be doing that again anytime too soon. What a pain. I am worried about leaving the sway bar off all the time though. This is my daily driver, and its not too often I take it off road. Looks like I better get some disconnects then :(
Thanks everyone,
Greg
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