TJ sway bar question

You have a pile of areas that will make a clunk/thunk in the front end of the Jeep starting with u-joints which you have 5 of up front....

Shock bushings, control arm bushings, track bar bushings and ball joint, anti sway bar bushings, anti sway bar links, ball joints, tie rod ends and brake parts can all make noise on a turn if bad to just name a few that come to mind.

I recommend you find out just what has gone bad before tossing random parts at it.

Oh and most bad accidents happen within a mile of home eh....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Why would you want quick disconnects if you don't go off-road a lot?

I don't think you want to drive on the street with them disconnected. I'll second Mike's comment about finding out exactly what is wrong.

Thunk thunk when you turn is probably a CV joint.

With 88k miles I'd be very suspicious of a bad CV joint, too. Get it off the ground and check everything. Tom T

Each of your axle housings has four control arms linking the frame to the housing - two upper arms and two lower arms roughly running in line with the frame toward the centre of the vehicle. Not to be confused with the vertical sway bar links or the track bar that diagonally links one end of the axle with the frame above the opposite end. The stabilizer is the shock absorber on your steering linkage. My XJ front, similar to your TJ:

That sounds right, the bar itself should be okay, but note that the links and link bushings aren't the only anti-sway bar components that can fail. The rubber bushings that hold the anti-sway bar to the frame can also wear out. Poly replacements are inexpensive.

Disconnecting can improve off-road traction by keeping your front wheels on the ground and it makes for a more comfortable ride on uneven terrain by limiting pitch and roll of the body. If that sounds appealing and you're off-road frequently then consider the JKS, otherwise go for OEM-style.

You can easily handle it if you drive carefully, but if need to react unexpectedly with a sharp turn at speed, you'll be much more prone to roll it. If you happen to get in a serious accident you'll be held liable for illegally modifying your suspension.

That said, perhaps you should take it off-road or in a parking lot, pull the links, and listen for the clunking to confirm that they are indeed the problem.

Steve

Mike, Thanks for the host of other things to consider. I probably should have been clearer in my description. The noise only occurs once per turn, not the continous popping noise that a bad CV joint makes. In fact, it occurs with shifting of weight...if I make a slow turn on flat pavement, no noise. This, plus the fact that if I have the jeep stopped, and I rock the front end by pushing down over the left fender flare, you can see/feel the movement/thunk at the bushing where the anti-sway bar is connected to the link arm on the right side. I identified the offending hardware a little while back, but have not had the time to fix it/ask you guys for more advice, because I was out of town. In the meantime, I think the left link is starting to make the same noise, although it's hard to say that for sure, as I'm doing the driving when I feel the clunk. SO, that brings me back to the name of that piece...my understanding is that it's the anti-sway link a.k.a. the piece you replace by purchasing the quick disconnects. Is this ALSO a.k.a. a control arm?

Thanks again,

rich

Thanks for the labeled photo! yes, definitely the offending junction is at the bushing between the anti-sway bar and the vertical sway bar links. And, I also see that that piece of equipment is not also called a control arm. and, that's an even better idea to disconnect them and drive around to see if it's the problem...if it hasn't gone away, then I'll start looking into the CV or something else, as Mike suggested. I really doubt it's a CV joint, as I've had those go bad before (different vehicle), and this does not sound similar. Plus, the CV joint was more of a noise than something you felt. I think that Dennis has a good point that there is not much use in having quick disconnects if I don't go off-road, which was IMHO, all the more reason to use the $5 ones :)

I am, however, left with the question of what all would be included in buying the OEM link....are these things universally sold as pairs? or do they come individually? Do they include bushings? because, visually, mine appear worn, and I don't mind spending an extra $20 to get the polys....I just don't want to buy them separate if they are included....

thanks again, fellahs,

rich

That sure sounds like you need new links. I believe you are right to change both.

I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks with the 'quick disconnects' are ready to go fast, the others just unbolt one side and go and take a little longer to get ready, But.... when it comes time to get back on paved roads, the folks that bolt them are long done and over helping the 'quick disconnect' folks try to line things up. I have seen 4 people needed to do them up again. Well, they only call them quick 'disconnects' eh, they say zip about hooking them back up... LOL!

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

redjeep0 wrote:

Hi Mike,

You must be referring to older designs that force you to line up two halves of the link to insert a cross pin. The current JKS design is called 'Quicker' and it really is. It has an orbital end joint that slides on a tapered anchor post. My five year old son connects them for me while I hook up the hose to air the tires.

Steve

Mike Roma> I wheel with lots of folks that disconnect them off road. The folks

The links are sold separately at your Jeep dealer if you want the original factory link. They are interchangeable. One link fits either the right or left side. The part number is: #52087771AB. I would suggest just replacing them both.

You can get them from your local Jeep dealer or order them online here:

The factory list price is $47.25 and the online price is $34.49. If you print out that page and take it to your dealer, they will probably match the price. The dealer will most likely have the links in stock, since they wear out at the top and are a common replacement part.

To remove the old link, you just un-bolt it at the bottom and the top. The bottom comes right off, but the top of the link is tapered and fits into a tapered hole in the stabilizer bar. It is really jammed in there and you will need a tie rod separator tool to remove it. You jam the forked end of the tool between the top of the link and the stabilizer bar and lever it up and down until the link breaks free. The tool is inexpensive and available at your local auto parts store.

See the tool here:

Tom

Thanks a lot, for the info, Tom. I have had a tough time getting the stabilizer link bar off---I didn't have a deep-socket 18mm wrench, I finally got one, and now I don't have enough torque to get it off (in MY arm)....I have some WD40 hopefully working it's magic right now. Maybe I'll have to start going back to the gym! At any rate, I have one final question--do I still need to buy the polyurethane bushings, or does the OEM part include everything I need?

rich

The oem stabilizer bar link comes with everything.

Tom