Thanks to everyone who helped me get the oil pan and rear seal off my CJ7. I have everything torn down and will put it back together tomorrow -- still got to clean the old gasket off the oil pan and block. btw, how clean do the oil pan and block need to be? Also, I lossened the bearing caps, so what is the torque pattern for tighening them back -- I know the spec is 80 pounds? What is the torque pattern for the oil pan? Thanks.
My FSM says "Connecting Rod Bolt Nuts" Torque = 33 ft lbs for "Service Set-to torque", Torque = 30 - 35 ft lbs for "Service In-Use Recheck Torque"
That's for the I-6, 258.
If you're talking about the exterier of the block and oil pan then that's up to you. I cleaned mine off so I can detect oil leaks in the future.
As far as the oil pan goes, I don't think there's a "torque pattern". I would just go from center to outer and from side to side.
Bill
The pattern for the bearing caps is
13 9 5 1 4 8 12 | | | | | | | 14 10 6 2 3 7 11Bill gave you the torque specs already.
Thanks Bill. I found this article and it says to use 80 ft pounds.
Just to clarify, that is the spec for the main bearings. The rod bearing torque is the 33 that Bill stated. Torquing a rod cap to main specs does bad, bad things.
Chris
Thanks. To make sure I'm clear, the bolts for the seven main caps I loosened to remove the rear main seal need to be torqued to 80 ft pounds?
"Main Bearing Capscrews"
Torque = 80 ft lbs for "Service Set-to torque", Torque = 75 - 80 ft lbs for "Service In-Use Recheck Torque"
Billo
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