YJ body removal

Depending on where the 2 Jeeps have lived, some or all of the body mount bolts will be stuck and break off. If it is a desert country Jeep, I'd probably just start in with a wrench. If it is snow country with salted roads, I'd drill into the pockets that hold the nuts,squirt the pocket full of PB Blaster or Kroil several times over a couple of weeks before starting.

The wiring harness comes out with the tub so you will need to disconnect much of the wiring going to the engine. It unplugs at the dash but the enigne harness goes to both engine and lights among other things. Lots of little ones, gas tank, and front axle (91 and up) come to mind. A hoist is nice since you can do it slowly and find the wires you missed but it can be done with several sturdy friends.

The body gets a little flimsy when it old, rusty, and by itself. Lift it off by using a strap underneath and a 2x4 spreader on top.

Take the > I want a 6 cyl in my YJ. To bypass having to reweld engine mounts etc

If you are up here in the rust belt, it can be a serious job to get the bolts out of the mounts. The hidden weldnuts inside the body would need soaking like Roy says.

When I removed the body on my 86 CJ7, only one bolt came out. The rest either snapped or spun out so they had to have the heads ground off. I tossed mine in the scrap heap and went 'glass so never had to deal with the repair on spun ones and snapped ones. Mine was far too rotted.

The harness comes apart in modules at the back of the fuse panel. One for the engine, one for the lights and on the inside one for the dash and one for the tub.

The steering isn't too bad to pull apart, it unbolts by the firewall and down at the steering box.

I left my brake master all hooked up and unbolted it from the firewall. I tied it to the intake for the most part to hold it while swapping things. Clutch could be the same.

Do you have the 15 or 20 gallon fuel tank? If 15, it can be fixed easily while it's open to be the 20.