110 v8 carburettor set up

Don't worry about it, there were a lot of pre-defenders fitted with SU's at the factory, couldn't tell you the changeover date, although having said that I've yet to see a military 110V8 on strombergs.... (Dons flak-jacket and prepares for torrents of corrections!). Jet should be an 0.1", the only size readily available for a 1.75" SU, and needles will probably be BAK or maybe BFW. Quick set-up as follows.

1. Make sure needle locating holder shoulder is set flush with lower face of piston correctly, adjust jet lifter screws (Assuming the carbs are HIF6's and not the older HS6's) until the top edge of both jets are flush with the top edge of the jet carrier tube, counting the number of turns. Average out the turns and adjust each one down the equal ammount - this is your starting point, all adjustments should be equal from here on in. HS6's are adjusted by a big nut on the bottom of the jet tube carrier.
2. Refit pistons and upper chambers, top up to within 1/2" from top of damper tube with a relatively thin oil. (3 in 1, ATF, 0W30 etc - 20W50 is a bit too thick and only worsens fuel consumption) and fit dampers.
3. With engine idling (hot) and the carb inlet elbows removed, and the cross-link between the carbs disconnected, adjust each idle screw so that the speed is correct and each carb piston is open by the same ammount when viewed through the inlet. Now, get a long thin screwdriver and very gently raise the piston (at the edge, not in the centre as this will disrupt the airflow over the jet) by about 1mm. If the rpm drops, the mixture is lean. If it rises, the mixture is rich. If it remains unchanged or rises a fraction and re-settles, then it is ok. When you have done the left carb, do the right, then repeat the whole process from the start of this paragraph, as adjusting the mix can vary the rpm. Do it properly and you'll find that the CO is pretty much ok as well. In theory, you can adjust both carbs the same ammount, but you may end up with them as much as 3/4 a turn different to each other due to manufacturing and initial set-up tolerances.
4. Reconnect the cross-link, adjusting as necessary so that both carbs hit the idle stops unrestricted and the left carb (viewed from drivers seat) starts to open partially before the right.
5. Choke cams have an alignment mark, pull out choke until left carb is lined up with the fast idle speed screw, adjust cross link to achieve same pos'n on right. Now slacken off choke fast idle screws until off cams, and adjust until just touching cam at scribed line, plus 2 flats. Apply a spot of grease to the cam running surfaces.
6. Reassemble inlet pipework / elbows etc.

Sounds a lot more complicated than it is, takes about 15min all told. Badger. B.H.Engineering, Rover V8 engine specialists.

Cheers Badger, have now got the replacement kit :0) We'll be doing it tomorrow-->sunday, which gives me plenty of 'other bits' time, hopefully, once I've done this, and added the o/drive, I'll get >30mpg on a long run......

`Mark

(with assistance from P.H.Developments)

Paul

Remember that you'll only get 30+MPG when travelling in formation with an entire squadron of porcine aviators.

The equivalent of, using LPG and a GKN, so really only about 18-20 mpg on petrol, should be acheivable :0)

`Mark

Well, we managed to get one carb completely re-fitted, after breaking a circlips a few times :0) Ended up with 42thou wire making the clips, as it was Sunday when the last one sproinged itself into pieces :0( Re-assembled, turn the key, and after a few seconds it burbled into life, and would seem to be running better :0) Probably due to the jet having been set too low, the floats set at 5mm~, and the needle had been using one side of the jet as a break! Well worn out of true. It starts much better, and seems to run more evenly as well, so , next w/end, we do the second carb, should take a lot less time, as the eng in charge now has all the tools/black arts he needs :0) More info on mpg's and stuff when she's had number two sorted. `Mark