BRC vapouriser adjusment

My AT90E has got two hex thingies on the side (look closely, it's easy to miss the other hex!), plus that small brass knob. One of the hex-es is useless, the other does the job - screwing it in leans the mixture, and vice versa. Small brass knob is only for fine-tuning. Big brass knob on the bottom is drain plug, you got that right.

Hope this helps, Peter

Nedavno Austin Shackles pise:

| Having spent about 2 hours getting my CO meter to work, I concur, | it's way high at idle. Petrol CO figures look about right.

Sorry, can't help you with your problem but I wanted to ask you something. I am considering getting one (used) CO meter of eBay. Is it maintenance free, or do I need filters to change? Does it need calibration, and how do you do that? Anything else?

I have a gunsons one (came from ebay). It is maintenance free.

You calibrate it by leaving it outside for as long as possible (min

15mins to get a good calibration in my experience), then adjusting it so that it reads 2%.

Im not sure id buy one again. I have a wideband 02 sensor and controller in my car now and i think putting the money towards a wideband sensor and controller would be more use (it will probably cost you £150-£200 and you can get an adaptor to hold the sensor itself in the tailpipe.

Nedavno Tom Woods pise:

| I have a gunsons one (came from ebay). It is maintenance free. |=20 | You calibrate it by leaving it outside for as long as possible (min | 15mins to get a good calibration in my experience), then adjusting it | so that it reads 2%. |=20 | Im not sure id buy one again. I have a wideband 02 sensor and | controller in my car now and i think putting the money towards a | wideband sensor and controller would be more use (it will probably | cost you =C2=A3150-=C2=A3200 and you can get an adaptor to hold the sensor | itself in the tailpipe.

You can buy Bosch wideband sensor for =C2=A370 here:

What does controller do? I just finished my air - fuel meter that I found it here:

It's a simple 0-1V voltmeter. I guess that one you have does a lot more.

Can you explain how do you use it, it's benefits...

--=20 ___ ____ /__/ / \ ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 ** / / \/ /\ \ ** Registered Linux user #291606 ** /__/\____/--\__\ **

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On or around Thu, 22 Feb 2007 17:51:50 +0200, Peter enlightened us thusly:

Hmmm. no sign of other hexes, but then it's not in the ideal place for looking at it. I'll have another look next time it's both light and not raining (much). The small brass knob doesn't appear to do anything to the mixture.

On the OMVL, one adjuster is fixed bleed and the other is mixture, dunno if the BRC is similar. The fixed bleed is only really there I think so that it doesn't stall from inertia when going from high-vacuum (e.g. over-run) straight to idle.

On or around Thu, 22 Feb 2007 17:58:52 +0100, Yvan enlightened us thusly:

The gunsons elcheapo ones are not worth it IMHO, I had one and gave up on it.

Mine's a very old one called "Sun" which is rather a work of art. It seems to work, though, which is a good thing as I've no idea how to fix it.

Nedavno Austin Shackles pi=C5=A1e:

| >| Having spent about 2 hours getting my CO meter to work, I concur, | >| it's way high at idle. Petrol CO figures look about right. =20 =20 |=20 | The gunsons elcheapo ones are not worth it IMHO, I had one and gave | up on it.=20 |=20 | Mine's a very old one called "Sun" which is rather a work of art. It | seems to work, though, which is a good thing as I've no idea how to | fix it.

I was thinking of old Sun or Bosch unit. You say nothing about filters, calibration maintenance. What did you do for two hours getting it to work?

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I have this one ...it's OK ..cost me a =A35er from car boot sale ...guy thought it was a battery charger.

actually this is a snap-on one ...just the other name they trade under ..

works great ...the only trouble is ...that the resolution is two digits .... so its 0.0 to 9.9 ...not great as these days cars are putting out CO in the 0.000 range.

still i get to test my car before the mot and see that it is less than

0=2E2 for petrol ......and 3.5 LPG

handy for seeing faults ...

in the pic ...its showing 0.00....this is running on petrol...lpg was the same. actually after on the proper mot machine it was showing 0.07 on petrol ...like i said last digit is there for show ....its always 0

the two perspex chambers you see are meant to have filters in them ...available from snap-on at ....guess what.....=A338 for

100 ....hence they ain't in play ..

calibration is done with the probe out of the exhaust and it sucking in fresh air ....then you just zero it ....

cant see the point of sending it to snap-on and having it properly calibrated ...as its just not accurate enough anyways in the resolution department ...

BTW ...when ever i tried to tune my old mixer system with this i ended up with flat spots ...

the best way to use these ...is this way ...

to get your car to run as best as you can ...by acceleration runs ...etc ...

then plug this in and note and write down the readings .....so when you next tune ...you can just get it running and tuned ...by using it and setting up with your old figures ...so avoids tearing up and down the road ...annoying neighbours.

BBBTW, one with a greater resolution is going to cost a lot ... even these sell on ebay for =A380 plus second hand.

All the best.mark

I bought one of these:

I think that the controller sorts out the heating element in the lambda sensor itself (so only runs it as required) and also lets me datalog it straight onto a PC (which also gives me a nice readout of the CO/lambda on the screen). It says in the blurb that it does some calibration stuff too but im not sure what if any.

My wideband is fixed into my downpipe. I currently use it while driving to datalog the air/fuel. (i also drive a simple LED gauge off it)

No benefits over doing it how you have i dont think.

You can buy (or make) a clamp to hold the lamda probe in the exhaust and you could then easily use it to tune multiple cars.

Its like alt.fan.lpg here tonight :)

Have you not got a friendly local converter you can ring up austin?

On or around Thu, 22 Feb 2007 21:26:41 +0100, Yvan enlightened us thusly:

mainly, find out how it works. Initially, I decided that the pump wasn't pumping. Having pulled it apart a bit, I decided that it was a blocked jet. Having looked at it more, I found that it doesn't actually suck on the inlet pipe: the exhaust blows thorough the system, and the pump sucks some of it out of the pipe as it goes past. Having realised that, I then modified the end of the pipe into the exhaust so as to make more exhaust flow through the machine, and then it worked.

It should be said that I've not got the original pipe from the exhaust - it's possible that it should be bigger bore.