Cheap Coniston green?

You may do better with brush-painting. And you'll need the proper primer, whichever way you put the paint on.

Hammerite do a primer for "special metals", galvanised and alloy in particular, which makes a huge difference. But I wouldn't recommend it for other than their paints.

Spray cans are expensive.

You mean the previous owner put in years of hard work to get a good distressed finish and you want to ruin it with a can of paint? If your Landy was an antique, it would be called patina and would add hundreds to the value.

:-)

Halfords will mix paint to order and sell it in 500 mL tins. At least my local one did for the Caspian Blue on my RRC. Cost about 50% more than an aerosol from Rover!!

Richard

I don't think there's such a thing as "standard" landrover Green. Although the deep green colour used on older landrovers (series) is officially Leyland Deep Bronze Green (BLMC 619, IIRC)

Have you thought about Speedliner? It's a spray-on epoxy coating, with granules for grip, quite popular in the US. There was a company selling the concept at LRO.

Otherwise, it may be best to go down to your local paint factor and get a large tin of cellulose in the correct colour, and brush it on. Whilst you'll need several tins to spray it, a spray can does not put a lot of paint onto the surface anyway, a proper spray gun puts much thicker coats on. Couple of litres of cellulose, thin it out a bit and brush it on will result in a much thicker coating anyway. You can also buy the Etch primer that the bare aluminium will need, this is probably best obtained in a couple of spray cans, as it only needs a light covering coat.

Alex

Indeed they do, and it's much cheaper than spray cans. There is an interesting (?) point to note though... They have colour books with loads of Land Rover colours in. The computer doesn't have any (or many) colours under Land Rover, because they are all on the computer under BLMC (British Leyland). It took two Halfords stores and 3 paint mixing people to work that one out when I bought Scarlet Mica for the

Yep, but my paint mixer knew what he was doing! And yes Caspian Blue does seem to be a BLMC colour.

To give the OP an idea of cost:

For all the simple cellulose colours ive bought from the small paint place near here its been about £14 a litre IIRC. A gallon drum of cellulose thinners is about £3

They will also make up spray cans.

After getting stuff from Halfords I later found these guys to be very good and also much cheaper than a few spray places that tried to stiff me stupid money.

I think the place I use here is one of them. (stupidly, there are 2 car paint places in stoke-on-trent and theyre almost within sight of each other!.)

Tim Hobbs wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Looks like a good contact although the nearest depot is 150 miles (?) at Dundee, but they do mail order. I see they have a technical advice line so will contact them on Monday.

Many thanks. Local paint suppliers (Inverness) quoted £8 for a litre of thinner and £10 for primer so looks as if I will save money at the same time.

Derry

Hi Derry,

Have you asked Brown Brothers in Inverness yet?

I don't know how successful your painting the rear floor will be, Derry. I did the rear tub, inside and out on the 110 that's just finished (about three coats of undercoat and three top coat, that's on top of the LR white it was originally. Still seems to scratch quite badly. Have you looked at any spray on truck bed lining kits? I think that would be a sight longer lasting for a LR that's used like yours!

Regards

William MacLeod

William MacLeod wrote in news:o7c5d.51$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net:

Called in on them yesterday. £8 a litre for thinner and £10 a litre for undercoat. They did not have smaller quantities and I have postponed. Parting with money is noit my favourite occupation!

Have you

Where do I get that from? I may have located a source of surplus industrial belting which will fit the floor. Saw it in a

Long term, I suppose I will sell the 300, so it doesn't really need to be tarted up until that is imminent. At the moment the colouring could be described as "Dalmation".

Derry

Belting works very well - deadens some of the noise, too.

David

Check out the Yellow Pages for local automotive paint suppliers - some large factors wil mix paint too (Partco / Brown Bros for example). Always use the places that the trade use and you won't go wrong. IMHO places like Halfords are best left for when you want a new chammy leather when all the decent places are closed ;-)

Steve. Suffolk. remove 'knujon' to e-mail

Seems a little far away, are you sure there isn't a local franchise somewhere near you? Personally I always use Autopaint, the local franchise in Luton, only once have I had the wrong colour, and that was not the guys fault, there was a discrepancy between the colour book and the computer, resulting in two different paint colours for the same paint code.

Alex

Or as an alternative you could buy (via mail order) Tekaloid synthetic enamel which is a tough Alkyd based paint from either the Avenue group " snipped-for-privacy@avenue-group.co.uk" or Breakwells paints " snipped-for-privacy@breakwellspaints.co.uk".

Steve.

Which you will find almost impossible to paint over with anything except the same again. Should you wish to use 2-pack or cellulose at a later date, you'll need to sand it all off and etch prime from bare metal.

I know, I had to take a Landrover rear tub and bonnet back to bare and respray, as not even 2K etch isolating primer would stick to it properly.

Incidentally, Cellulose will also not work on top of Hammerite either.

Alex

That is true with any synthetic,

Not if you use an isolator or barrier coat, but this needs to be applied by spray gun.

Etching primer is designed for bare metal use, is has no real effect or benefit applied on painted surfaces.

True, Hammerite is an overrated product and not well suited for many of the applications it's recommended for. It lacks the protective qualities it once had, IMO Hammerite can only be described as a decorative paint.

Steve.

Which is a problem if you have rubbed down and have a mixture of bare and painted surfaces. I still have the bonnet sitting around, I've never seen anything quite like it, the primer applied is supposed to do both Etch and Isolate, even normal isolating primer won't stick to it either.

F*ck knows what's on it, but I would have had to go completely bare metal and start from scratch. I got another bonnet from stock and painted that one instead.

Alex