disco trade in price

Trade-in - £1500? Depends on what you are trading it in against.

I saw a really really nice condition P-reg up for £2999 in a local garage the other day. You can get 300's from less than £2k both private and trade now.

Matt

|| anyone know the trade in price for a tidy N reg 1995 300 tdi manual || 95000 miles. no rot in usual places, waxoyled by before'n'after last || year. been on autotrader for 3.5k not one call. || || Paul.

Parkers

gives around £3700 for a trade-in and around £4000 for a private sale for the P reg base model (their prices don't go back beyond that), so I would have thought that £3500 wasn't far out. Trouble is, there are an awful lot of them about these days, as I found when I traded mine in at the end of last year. Things to check: o Autotrader is a national publication - there might be no-one near you interested, perhaps try a local publication? o Poor response to ads is usually down to poor wording or unattractive (or no) photo as long as the price is fair - have you called Autotrader to ask their advice about improving the ad for next time?

IMHO you should pop it on eBay, take lots of pictures and write a comprehensive description that indicates you know your car inside and out. Many people will buy a Land Rover on eBay if the description is right etc and you will probably get a good price. I have sold a Disco 2, and a V8 90 on eBay and got top money for them.

Good luck

Andy

We got £1700 for a H reg RRC Turbo D last Sept on a Trade in. Was sorted though, sills, Inner wings, rear arches, respray (most proffesional if I do say so myself!) new tyres and new upper ally tailgate. May give a rough idea, I was well chuffed.

I think the secret was when he said "What sort of price were you thinking of for yours?". I replied "Ten grand but I'm willing to haggle" When he offered £1700 I nearly broke his wrist.

Lee D

Not surprised Lee! Mind you, having seen your latest Disco photos, if it looked anywhere near as good as that then you will always get top money as there are so few RRC's in good condition around.

Like I said, it does depend on what you are buying - if you trade a £1k car in against a £2k car you aren't going to get much, but if you're trading a £1k car against a £10k car then you are going to get more as the dealer will have more room for negotiation. Whatever you do - you are unlikely to get the best price by trading in.

Matt

Matt's right, spent a weekend making mine look good with touch up paint and valeting and sold the J reg 200Tdi Disco with 235000 on the clock for 2k. Condition is everything. Service history is a must too. Without any of that they go for peanuts. On the other hand I was happy to give 3200 for my P reg Disco Tdi ES with

205000 on the clock because it has full service history from new and I know both of the two previous owners. And it happens to be in great condition....

TonyB

On or around Thu, 13 Jul 2006 17:52:58 +0100, "Paul" enlightened us thusly:

I go with the eBay suggestion... from personal experience as both buyer and seller:

[this is turning into "selling your truck on eBay 101" - ignore it if you want]

Pictures: take at least 20 photos and select 10-12. Make sure you show all 4 sides, and 3 interior shots (front, middle, rear) plus under-bonnet and I reckon a shot of the dash showing the mileage is a good idea. That leaves you 2 or 3 shots left over which you use for detail shots of any problem areas. If you're stating, for example, "small patch of rust on rear wheel arch" then take a close-up of it with something in the picture to give scale. By the same token you can take a shot of anything good, like "recent pro repair to rust on wheelarch" with a closeup of it all shiny and nice.

Description: Make sure to include *all* the details. it's not enough to say "good engine." describe fully, make sure you list any mods or repairs (e.g. "recently had track rod ends replaced for MOT" or "cambelt changed 3000 miles ago"). Avoid loud showy coloured capitals, I for one am immediately suspicious of them. List anything you can think of, like "rear fold-up seats with original lap belts". Don't assume that buyers know *anything*. It's not too silly to list actual tread depth on tyres, or to list the approximate mileage they've done.

Pricing and Reserve: There's a good argument for starting under 100 notes (lower listing fees) and not putting a reserve on. If you do put a reserve on, don't put a buy-it-now on as well - it puts people off. They see your listing with BiN at 5000 quid and reserve not met and assume that the reserve is set at about

4500, so they don't bother. Personally, I do put a reserve on vehicles just in case, although in recent months I've seen very few really big bargains on what I've watched, so I reckon there's some truth in the thing that it's fairly safe not to bother with a reserve, just I lack the nerve to do so...

Setting reserve: Study the market on eBay for similar vehicles for a few days and see what the bidding goes to, which ones sell and which ones don't make reserve. Your reserve price is one of the following: 1) The absolute minimum you'll sell for, or 2) The amount that similar vehicles have been bid to recently. Which it is depends on how badly you want the vehicle moved on. If you need it gone this week, then you choose the latter as that will likely get it sold. If you've a mind to sell it but aren't bothered if it hangs around for a month or two, try a higher reserve. But too high a reserve will reduce bidding: people coming in towards the end of the auction may not bother if the bidding hasn't hit reserve and has almost reached their personal maximum.

Here's a recent one of mine to look at:

which sold for a reasonably good price based on what other, similar vehicles had been going for. not long ago 2 similar ones were bid to about 1650 and didn't make reserve. Mine had a reserve of 1600. Once they hit reserve, people know they can actually win it, and thet seems to revive the interest.

You can drop the reserve during the auction but there are limitations, so check first.

hey Austin, i notice you have lots of bike hubs on ebay. you dont have any non-geared sturmey-archer dynohubs (or similar) knocking about that you want to shift cheaply do you? (or alternatively any suggestions on how i can reduce the turning resistance of the magnetic bits slightly on my current hub which was a geared one till i stripped the gears out to make it straight through...)

Can we please write in English - straight over my head.

Andy

Austin should understand! :)

I've been trying to build a wind turbine out of a dynamo bike hub, however there is too much resistance (from the magnetic bits) on my current prototype and it wont spin up. I am going to try a different blade design next and hopefully that will give me more torque and let it spin up.

You've got at least three choices haven't you? Put more blades in, increases torque but lowers wind capture efficiency, make blades longer or change pitch but that changes rotation speed or do it electrically by leaving the output either shorted or open circuit till it has spun up. Or is the "cogging" related to the iron in the armature?

AJH

On or around Fri, 14 Jul 2006 14:33:37 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

Do you still want it to generate? if not, you can strip the stator out of it.

less resistance when it's not generating, so if it's not required to generate, make sure there's no electrical connection.

On or around Sat, 15 Jul 2006 01:01:48 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

yeah, bigger blades or better blades. The generator only makes 6W...

will it spin if not connected electrically?

yeah, the generation is the point of it! :)

a new prop made out of bits of landrover and 101 off cuts is now under construction!

On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:38:50 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

ah, I see.

frankly, I've never thought the dynohub would be worth the effort - although being a simple alternator, you ought to be able to get 12V from it and maybe use it as a trickle charger.

apparently it will easily make more than 12v, hence why it has a reputation for blowing bulbs when on a bike! (i can get 60v ac spinning it off an electric motor!)

Im only using it cos i already have one. My wind turbine has so far cost me £3 for a bike hub (to mount the whole thing on), £3 for a length of drainpipe for prop number one, and 18p for the AC-DC conversion jobber from maplins. :)

On or around Mon, 17 Jul 2006 20:14:33 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

fair enough. but the design output of the dynohub is 3W, remember. so although you get increased voltage, you won't much actual power.