Drop arm balljoint

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 16:43:02 -0000, "Dom J" enlightened us thusly:

what vehicle?

and what drop arm?

what vehicle is it? The one on our 90 is different to the one on our Discovery. The one on the 90 needs changing (again). The last time I changed I cheated and didnt change the cup, just the ball. This time the cup needs changing but I'm not sure if it can be done in situ. Getting the drop off our Discovery needed a 20t hydraulic puller

Hi Dom,

RR still going strong??

When drop arm balljoint became loose I changed the whole drop arm - about £30 from Autopost. The manual has all manner of warnings about using a press when replacing just the ball joint. I didn't think it worth the trouble of finding a suitable press or rigging something dangerous involving my bench vice.

Do you have the relevant pages from the genuine manual?

Mine goes in for its MOT tomorrow. Guess what I found on Monday night? Yep, plate across top of rad has come away from one of the end pieces allowing the rad core to expand!

See you're on the list for Mount Wise - see you there.

Richard

Ive taken 2 off so far,1 disco and 1 90 with the boxes off just smacked it with a hammer and it flew off

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 19:27:32 GMT, "Richard" enlightened us thusly:

getting the top cup out is a right royal pain in the arse. What I did in the end was to soften it by heating it with a gas torch and put a hacksaw through the f***er. That made it come out. You also make a small cut in the top part of the arm by so doing, but that's not the end of the world, as it has a rubber wossname over it anyway. Provided you don't cut into the side of the drop arm hole, thus weakening it, then you can cut it as I describe.

Having said all that, the one I did on the 110 a year or 3 back came out without resorting to such drastic measures.

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 19:57:50 +0000, Richard enlightened us thusly:

There are at least 3 kinds of drop arm on RRCs. some of them have a rebuildable joint, some have a replaceable joint and some have a non-serviceable joint, so you have to replace the whole arm.

Assuming it is of the type that requires a kit fitting, then ideally the drop arm should be taken off to fit the kit. However, if the arm is not going to come off easily and therefore risk damaging the steering box, then the kit can be fitted with the arm still attached ..... just.

Use a trolley jack or similar to support the drop arm while doing the repair - it's not easy, but it can be done.

Richard

In news:cnfv27$u5v$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk, Dom J blithered:

Pump?

AFAIKR Dom's RRC is the same vintage as mine (88 model) which has only one drop arm listed viz RTC6396 (for RHD), but I think that number has been superceded. The parts list does show an overhaul kit for the ball joint, but I really couldn't be bothered.

Rgds Richadr

Also do a Google Groups search on this. Its a fun fun job getting the arm off - - - -

Regs, Mike.

Whoops sorry chaps, lack of info in that post. Vehicle is a RRC D reg. I thought that either the drop arm ball joint (steering box one) or the ball joint on the 'tother end of same rod (swivel end) had gone. Took it to see my friendly mechanic chap and he couldnt see much wrong with them. We had a poke around with a pry bar to check for any movement and the only play we could find was up and down on both ball joints. Is this normal or not?. There was no play any other direction ie left to right or back to front. The whole reason I thought something had gone was a squecking noise when turning the steering wheel when stationary and a general vauge feeling when at speed. Since this post the noise has gone, but it still feels vauge. Maybe I'm just being over cautious!.

Dom J

Certainly was! Left my (hired) two leg puller quivering on the drop arm for about 10 mins having splashed the whole thing in Plus Gas. Then applied 'persuasion' to the screw on the puller courtesy of the medium club hammer. Boy did it come off with a bang!

Richard