Dropped valve on TD5

Simply, one of the valve-stems broke and a chunk of metal dropped into the cylinder

In message , MAB writes

It means that a valve has dropped out of the cylinder head on to the top of the piston. It could be just the head of the valve or the whole valve and valve seat.

Chances are the solid lump of valve would have done a lot of damage next time the piston came up to TDC. Damage would have been to both piston and head and very possibly the bore as well.

Your main dealer does not have the facilities or the ability to repair such damage but there is a possibility that an engine remanufacturer would be able to save the bare bones of your engine.

Given the mileage it is probably best to follow their advice and go for a new one.

Better still get to a good independent specialist and save a few quid that way.

Good luck.

Marc Draper uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Plenty of accident damaged motors around to provide a donor engine.

I wouldn't go the main dealer route unless money is no object and your trying to burn some otherwise taxable funds.

Lee D

My Suzuki GS125 dropped an exhaust valve while doing 60mph at over

brrrrrrrrrr-BANG-BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz-clinkclinkclink-bugger!

It means one of the valves has fallen apart and dropped into the combustion chamber. Because the bits of valve are not generally compressible this tends to leave your engine looking like a manic gremlin armed with a jackhammer has tried to get out.

Usually over-revving, running too lean and therefore too hot or a combination of the two. Sometimes valves just feel like falling apart.

My motorbike engine fell apart because I was over-revving and the exhaust baffles had been gradually rotting out which meant the exhaust was breathing more and more freely which meant the engine was running more and more lean. Engines generally run hot when they run lean.

That's steep. Maybe that's the price for a brand new engine but I'd be surprised if you can't find something for a 10th of the price.

Maybe for them. Have you tried getting a quote from a specialist engine rebuilder?

I guess the crank is ok and if the conrod isn't bent you just need a new head, new piston and either a rebore or have the piston relined and machined to fit the new piston.

Either way, it's a specialist job.

Look for a good 2nd hand engine of the same type or maybe try a different of engine. I hear nothing but good thing about Daihatsu 2.8 engines.

Whatever you do, the first thing you should do is find out exactly *WHY* the engine went bang. If the problem is solely in the exhaust then your new engine will experience the same problem.

Given that the reasonably priced Mr Beamends wants 2800 quid for a td5 short engine, that's not totally outrageous when you take removal, reconditioning the head, assembling, and refitting into account.

What are the chances of the head being good enough to recondition?

Huw

On or around Fri, 02 Dec 2005 17:54:52 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

I could quite believe a complete new engine ex-works at £4700.

However, I bet you can get a s/h one from a breaker for a fifth of that, if you look around. 'course, the main dealers aren't interested in looking for a s/h engine...

Ok, "a 10th" was a bit of an exaggeration due to trying out Glen Orrin whisky from Aldi (a blended malt, much cheapness!) but for £4700 I'd expect it to be a brand new or just run-in engine fitted and tuned and insured "as new".

That's probably what they are quoting. At main dealer rates I'd want a new long engine dropped in rather than spend £80 an hour building up a second-hand one from cheaper parts. Especially given the likelihood of the 'mechanic' actually doing it right.

If the car is otherwise good it may not be a bad investment, but a specialist will be able to fit the same brand new engine for substantially less.

Was the engine properly maintained from new? That's not big mileage when considered against the sort of distances the 300 and old V8 are routinely capable of.

On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 00:23:02 +0000, PDannyD scribbled the following nonsense:

Hmm TD5 to 2.8 diahatsu....

While not a fan of electronics, I know which I would prefer....

The price is much too high!

I know that an Austrian Land Rover main dealer can sell a new TD5 for

Raoul

On or around Sat, 3 Dec 2005 17:08:38 +0200, "Uli" enlightened us thusly:

why not?

Sounds mega cheap. Of course, there are engines and engines. I've recently put a V8 in the skip. Just needed pistons, heads, sump, timing gear, valves, water pump, oil pump.....

e3500 looks like a short engine price. The 4 grand odd originally mentioned was a 'repaired' price, which I took to include a new or factory-recon lump, head and fitting. Removal, repair and refitting would surely be at least 2 days work - well over a grand just for labour at main dealer prices.

When my Alfa blew its engine the dealer told me the price for a new engine would have been over 4K. That was about 4-5 years ago.

On or around Sat, 03 Dec 2005 18:55:16 +0000, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:

OP said "engine beyond economic repair, needs replacement. I took that to mean either a full factory recon or a new one.

If the thing's dropped a valve, then the chances are the head's knackered and maybe other stuff like the turbo if it was running fast at the time.

'scuse my ignorance, but what's the difference between a short engine and a long engine?

Dave.

I've

refitting

engine

Without / with head

AWEM

From RPI website (for a pushrod V8 of course)

long engines include block, crank, rods, pistons, rings, timing gear & camshaft, heads and rocker assembles

short engines include block, crank, rods, pistons, rings, timing gear & camshaft

Given that the engine in question has had a valve banging about it in then a long engine seems to be the likely requirement.

I am sorry, but that is what a friend of mine (running a workshop) has paid at the local Land Rover main dealer (also a friend of mine) so the prices are for sure correct. 3900 is list price, the rest was negotiation :-)

Raoul