Front crank oilseal.

have a dripping front crank

tools & a breaker bar & a very

Whats best to drift the new

No oil will come out, the oil level is below the seal, unless you do it parked on a steep downhill. ;-) Prise the old one out with a small pry-bar or screwdriver. Drifting the new one in is simplicity, oil the lip of the seal and gently tap it in until flush, working around it with a small clean toffee hammer. Not much force required at all. Nut will most likely be effin tight. If it's an auto, remove the cover at the flywheel to allow you (preferably your helper) to lock the flywheel with a large pry-bar or similar. If manual, 4th gear and foot hard on brakes, NOT

5th!

About 210lbft if memory serves me right.

As if, indeed :-)

And a gas conversion...... teehee.

Badger.

Badger uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Yeah , must be almost time to sort the wording for the for sale ad, this one's nearly done ;-)

Lee D

hehehehehehe - not on my life..........................yet!

It's like new now!

Just curious, why not 5th? Is it weak in this particualar application or is it general advice?

John

5th gear is transmiting the drive/torque via the layshaft (as are 1st to 3rd), 4th gear is the direct path via the mainshaft, going through only one synchro cone, and therefore less likely to create any problems. Direct top (or 4th) tends to be the strongest power transmission path through most if not all rear wheel drive gearboxes. Front wheel drive boxes are different, most have the drive transmitted from one shaft to another in all gears. I've seen many a 5th gear bust on an LT77 box after people trying to remove flywheel bolts from TDi engines in 5th gear, but then the LT77 wasn't known for the strength of it's 5th gearset! Unless you have an LT77 box, then no it's not that the 5th gear is weak as such, just good general engineering advice really. Badger.

On or around Tue, 27 Jun 2006 23:08:42 +0100, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

dripping front crank

fookin' tight.

apply good strong impact socket, and strong breaker bar, turn crank until said bar is about an inch above the chassis. disconnect ignition or pump stop solenoid and turn starter. It'll make a bloody great bang, and if you're lucky, loosen the bolt. If you use a cheap breaker bar, it'll make a bloody great bang and bits of breaker bar will fly all over the place.

best to drift the new

fookin' tight...

On the 300 TDi I failed to get it as tight as the book said... even with about 4ft of leverage on the thing. Book say 65 ft lbs plus 180 degrees, with loctite on the threads. I got about 140 degrees and the thing wasn;t gonna move any more.

Feck me, it's beyond my breaker bar. It's not a cheapie, but that is some going

--

Subaru WRX Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!) Looking at a 525cc KTM dirtbike now!

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

I knew there was a reason I have an 8:1 torque multipier in my toolbox (bought for doing head studs on heavy diesels). It makes 600 ft lbs a doddle.