Grrrrrr fitting side steps to a Defender 110

Dec 11, 2005 32 Replies

Hi all,



Well I got some shiny new side steps off e-bay for my Defender 110 2.5TDI CSW (1991). I noted how they fit on. So two bolts to the back chassis leg (bolts provided and holes already drilled) - no problems.



Ah but you have to undo the bolt for the front chassis leg. Great big thing, that refuses to turn. Soaked it in WD40, nope did not want to know. So Mr Blowtorch and nice red hot bolt, nope refused to turn and gave me some pain to my knuckles. So heated the bolt and immediately put cold water on the thread thinking this would cause rapid contraction and break any corrosion. Nope.



So here is the question, can I cut the bolt off with Mr Angle Grinder - of course putting a new stainless steel one on - or will the body drop down once I remove the bolt? I would love to get my side steps fitted.



Any help please.



Yours



Andy


have you tried Messers Hammer & Chisel or indeed an impact driver?

Oh yes - they were brought out of miss Toolbox - it must be a miss, as it seems to cost me money every week, little bit like my four daughters.

Andy

Andrew Renshaw uttered summat worrerz funny about:

If it's the same as the series ones and runs horizontal then you should have no real problems. I'd jack under the support to take the weight. Chock between the body and the outrigger. Don't over do it or it'll shift up once free. It should be secured by the footwell to chassis braces as well as the other side. I'd also avoid opening the doors during the process as they will help keep things as in line as Landies get.

Lee D

?! Forget about blowtorch, you need a breaker bar - about 3 ft long would be ideal. And a set of six sided impact sockets to go with it. WD40 and blowtorches are all very well, but not suitable replacements for brute force. Witht he breaker bar you'll either snap the bolt (saves getting the grinder out) or it'll unthread. And the chances are it'll unthread.

It'll be fine, just put a bottle jack under the bulkhead to support it, but it probably won't drop very much anyway as the bulkhead is still supported by another bracket from the footwell to the chassis. You'll need a long pin punch to drive the bolt out though.

Shopping list:

3 foot breaker bar Air impact socket set Punch set Copper headed hammer (doesn't do so much damage when you're hammering the sockets on)

Regards

William MacLeod

On or around 12 Dec 2005 03:23:26 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com enlightened us thusly:

Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact gun. I obviously did 'em up tighter than I thought I had with the BFO breaker bar.

BTW - apropos wheelnuts, and this is for LR ones too: draper do a deep 27mm socket described as an M24 diesel injector socket, which is perfect for LR wheelnuts. Apart, of course, from the early ones that aren't 27mm.

That'll be the problem Austin - the cheap ones are absolute s**te. Informal testing (ie lads were bored over a beer on a Friday afternoon) of a cheap Taiwanese one showed it was lucky to produce 200lbf of torque

- that compares to my newest 1/2" drive impact wrench is rated at

700lbf, and seems true to spec.

Hi Austin,

Time to break out the scaffold tube ;-) The only piece of Snap-On equipment I use is one of their 1/2" impact wrenches which I think was originally used by Noah to build his ark! Couple of drops of oil every day that it's used and it's away - I normally only use impact wrenches for things I can't hold easily while undoing like brake discs from hubs etc. But do make sure yours is well lubricated as dried out seals lead to much poorer performance from air tools

If the original poster follows the shopping list, he'll get a 27mm socket in his set.... probably not deep enough for injector removal though.

Regards

William MacLeod

On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 08:51:20 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

well it was only 30 quid. in fact, though I think it's rated about 200 lb ft. However, that's about what the wheelnuts should be. I'd not be surprised to find 'em tighter though, after i'd gorilla-ed them with the big cracking bar.

I'll have to play with it and a torque wrench, and see what it does.

On or around 12 Dec 2005 13:27:43 -0800, " snipped-for-privacy@macleod-group.com" enlightened us thusly:

I bunged a load of oil through it today, and also undid the little plug in the side where it says "OIL" and put some in there for good measure.

I'll experiment further with some bolts and see how tight it goes. If it turns out to be crap, well, swings and roundabouts, ain't it - I'll have to buy a better one, put it down to experience or something.

The nice thing about the injector socket is the depth, plus it's single hex. The depth means the handle clears the bodywork without using an extension.

If it turns out to be a bit weak get a 3/4" drive one for next time - useful for those really tight crank pulley bolts too.

Austin Shackles uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Wus! Blow harder!

;-)

Lee D

On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 12:07:25 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

yeha, but they require an upgrade of everything from the gun back to and including the compressor... The existing compressor and pipe and so forth should run a 1/2" type gun OK. The big ones need LOTS of air.

besides, I can do pulley bolts:

fit socket and big cracking bar to pulley, align end of cracking bar so it's about an inch or so above the chassis rail. Turn starter.

it's tightening the bastard that I can't do. Or not as tight as the book says, anyway. Not that it's come loose, as yet.

tracked down a nasty konck in the lathe the other day - main input pulley not secure on shaft. dunno what moron did that (not had it long, so not me)

Austin Shackles uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Torque converter, many years since I've seen one in use but seemed to do the trick.

Lee D

On or around Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:13:39 -0000, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

hehe. I've just got a more convincing compressor.

On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 11:43:24 -0000, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

ferwot? tightening the front bolt?

Austin Shackles uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Yeah, It was like a ratchet thingy with two handles which you worked in opposite directions. I guess there must have been some kind of fancy gearbox inside the ratchety bit. Youth used it undoing flywheel bolts on a Bug engine. His father ran a HGV company and they did all their own servicing so I guess cost wasn't so much of an issue.

I guess there may be a proper name for them torque multipler or summat like that.

Lee D

That's the one. And you need summat bloody solid to lock the reaction bar against.

EMB uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Like a chassis! :-)

He was a big youff though!

Lee D

Okay I tried everything including a three foot breaker bar. So wandered off to my friendly Land Rover Garage. He fitted the sidesteps in ten minutes. Explained that I am using a cheap socket set and that a decent socket and breaker bar will do it every time.

I asked him how much and he said - clear off.

I have spent a lot of money there in the last few months though, In fact to date I have spent £2500 on repairs and modifications for the Defender. The new Fuel pump and clutch were not cheap though. Nor upgraded heavy duty suspension and top of the range Gas Shocks.

Yours

Andy

P.S. Many thanks for all your help I have now added to my Christmas list an expensive socket set

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