Land rover 90

Hi,

I'm off to look at a landrover 90 ( my first one! ) on saturday!

it's a 1983 v8 conversion. ( 3.5 )

Problem is; i know nothing about them :) What should i look for?

Also, what are they like to drive? I'll have to do occasional motorway mileage, can i get reasonable economy say at 60mph? will it do 60mph? :) Is it feasable to drive every day?

Is it worth getting an AA Inspection?

So many questions, sooo little time !!!

Dan

Reply to
Dan Keeley
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Twas Thu, 1 Apr 2004 20:56:37 +0100 when "Dan Keeley" put finger to keyboard producing:

at that age check everything steel, chassis and bulkhead.

my knackered 1984 110 n/a diesel will cruise at 50 on a motorway so you'll be flying by in a 3.5 V8 90 even if only half your cylinders are fireing.

If you really don't know what you are looking at see if you can find someone who does and take them alon, offer them money... failing that AA but they may not like the age of the vehicle.

in a nutshell, poke the steel bits to be sure there is steel there. before running the engine see if it's warm, if it is it may be a rough starter so the seller has warmed it up for you to hide that.

with you at the nose end ask the seller to start the engine, listen carefully for anything that sounds 'odd'.

now drive it, you need to use all gears and low box, be sure the difflock engages and disengages as it should.

take note of any clonks in the drivetrain as you accelerate or brake.

drive a corner at full-lock and listen for oddities, clunking=bad.

If it 'feels' ok then you have yourself a Land Rover.

that's the best I can do for you not knowing anything about them.

I'm in south east cornwall if it helps.

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

My 1984 110v8 petrol will happily show an indicated 85mph on motorways. It's cruises happily at 75-80 and I haven't pushed it to see what the top end is as I really need it to keep running...

Don't expect startlingly good mpg at these speeds. Probably of the order of

Reply to
danny

First check the quality of the conversion - bad conversions are prone to overheat. The other issue is that a genuine factory V8 will have a Santana LT85 gearbox, 4-pin diffs and 24 spline halfshafts all of which are much stronger than standard and better able to withstand the V8 without breaking. Yours will probably not have these so you will need to drive more carefully.

My 90 V8 could show 100mph and cruise at 80mph fairly easily. If mpg worries you just walk away. You'll get 13 to 17mpg depending on use.

Reply to
Exit

Ok, i'll take note of all that.

One thing, i wasnt clear about my land rover experience - for sure thats zero. but my 4x4 experience is zero too, so whats a difflock, how do i know it engages, and whats the low box? :) Sorry! MAJOR NEWBIE ALERT!!!!

Reply to
Dan Keeley

Twas Thu, 1 Apr 2004 23:01:23 +0100 when "Dan Keeley" put finger to keyboard producing:

OK, the long gear stick works as normal, but a 90 has a little one too.

when it's to the left (either foreward or back) it tells the center differential to engage, drive a few feet and it will and you should get a yellow warning light. you don't want to be using this on roads, it's only for really slippy mud/gravel/wet grass, but do test it, light comes on = engaged OK. move the lever back to the right and reverse a few feet and the light should go out, difflock disengaged. all good.

A differential allows the wheels on the front axle to move at a different speed to those on the back axle, if you have ever seen tyre tracks from a car turning a corner you will see that every wheel takes a different line and so travels a different distance. The diffs in each axle allow opposite wheels to turn at different speeds and the centre diff allows for the difference between front and rear. being able to lock it means that 2 wheels have to lose grip before you stop moving rather than just one (someone correct me if I've got that bit wrong).

the little lever also has three positions, nearest the seat (back) is high-range gears for normal road use, the middle (forward) is neutral, and all the way forward is low-range, it makes all your gears really low gears, (use for iffy off-road stuff. I find you need to dip the clutch twice to get from high to low.

you need to check that there is still drive and the gearing feels different in low ratio (lever forward) put the gearbox in 3rd and it'll drive like first. a warning at this point, due to the effect of the gearing you can put alot, ALOT of power into your drive train in low box, especially with a V8, so be gentle or you may bust something.

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

Excellent thanks for that, i followed those instructions and it worked exactly as described..

Didnt get the car tho, made quite a clunk when taking up drive, do they all do that? Either when coming off and back on the power, or pulling off ... Maybe they all do that? But i decided it was too rough, and unrealistic to drive on the motorway, so i'll keep looking!!

Dan

Reply to
Dan Keeley

Twas Sun, 4 Apr 2004 15:08:26 +0100 when "Dan Keeley" put finger to keyboard producing:

Mine hase quite a clunk, some play in the diffs or some such, as my engine is a wimp I don't see it as a problem, with a V8 I'd be more concerned.

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

My 85 90D has a bit of a clunk, but I drove a petrol 2.5 last week that was newer (89) and had less miles (20k less) and that was awfull. Mine feels perfect now :O)

-- Jon

Reply to
jOn.....

My L/R Guru, Shirley (see other threads) tells me that the 'take-up' clunk in my 110 is a very common gearbox problem, especially among earlier 110 'boxes which can have a lubrication problem. Solution is (I'm afraid), a replacement/refurb box. Looks like I'll be cracking the kids' piggy banks again in the not-too-distant future.

Reply to
Stuart Nuttall

So the thing is tho, until it actually breaks is it anything to worry about?

Some people have implied that it can clunk for ages, before it actually breaks...

Reply to
Dan Keeley

This was also Shirley's view. However, as I 'll be trundling around the Scottish Highlands with my kids and a tent, I'd rather have one less thing to worry about!

Reply to
Stuart Nuttall

On or around Mon, 5 Apr 2004 22:06:08 +0000 (UTC), "Stuart Nuttall" enlightened us thusly:

If this is the main box output shaft spline wear problem, then yes, they can clunk for ages. The thing about it is that one day it'll suddenly lose all drive. You can get a thing from Steve Parker which dripfeeds oil to the bit that doesn't get any - dunno what effect this has on ones that's already worn, but I don't see how it could make it worse, and it's cheaper than rebuilding the box.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Just a thought from experience of a fellows 90 conversion. It would seem that with conversions fitted to LT77 gearboxes the engine sits much further back in the engine bay compared to my Factory Fit V8 90. This means that the oil filter is directly above the axle diff such that when one goes over a big lump, the axle smashes the filter. Not ideal! I know there are obvious ways around this such as remote filter and bigger bump stops.

Just something to be aware of.

Regards

Simon

Reply to
Simon Rose

In message , Stuart Nuttall writes

I think its a common problem with 90/110's. Worn splines on the main output shaft AIUI. As you say, only solution is a replacement gearbox.

Reply to
hugh

In message , Dan Keeley writes

True, but if you are at the point of purchase you have 2 choices.

  1. Recognise you are going to have a problem at some unspecified time in the not too distant future but use that to beat the price down or
  2. walk away and look for something better.
Reply to
hugh

I used the 'clunk' to talk £500 of mine - but I must admit that, at the time, I was convinced it was really was caused by nothing more than a perished bush... thought I was being a very clever, astute little bidder. Ho hum. That'll teach me to be smug about something I really don't understand!

Reply to
Stuart Nuttall

in article f5jcc.176$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe3-win.server.ntli.net, Dan Keeley at madman snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 5/4/04 9:13 pm:

We have had the Range Rover for 6 years now and it had a "drivetrain clunk" before we had it and is still going. It does sound and feel much worse when Bruce is driving as he tends to be heavy footed.

Reply to
Nikki Cluley

In message , Nikki Cluley writes

Do they us the same gearbox??

Reply to
hugh

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