Oil

Apr 19, 2005 50 Replies

Early ones are: ETC6849 - 3.5 Carb 26D, 27D engines ETC6850 - 3.5 Carb 28D, 29D, 30D engines.

Todays quiz - what's the difference between these two? Answers on a post card!

Richard

Not in effect - the 3.9 (ERR8686) superceeds to RRR5924 in both cases, though this mentioned in the Discovery parts book and not in the RR one.

Richard

Looking at the "can" again it says Castrol SLX Longlife 11 and the Halfords book said that was the one for the BMW 330i petrol. I hope they are right.

On or around Wed, 20 Apr 2005 12:12:32 +0000 (UTC), "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

that might make sense. I might bung a gauge on it, to see what it's doing.

On or around Wed, 20 Apr 2005 12:17:17 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:

I could probably look it up, but I suspect the answer is either "nothing" or possibly "has facility to fit fuel pump cam" and "doesn't".

The main thing wrong with his argument is his understanding of the difference in viscosity between a 10w/40 and a 15w/40 oil. At operating temperature both are the same viscosity. At ambient temperature the 10w/40 is marginally thinner or lighter but is still substantially heavier or thicker than either at operating temperature. Either of these oils is good for the V8 and no difference should be noticeable and no harm will be caused by either even in the long term.

Huw

True, and mostly a 0w/30 viscosity

No mention of any other specification than ACEA A3/B3 as approriate.

I wouldn't dream of putting

I wouldn't dream of using a non synthetic oil in it, yet those specifications can be met by high quality mineral oils. Strange.

Only the 0w/40 viscosity Mobil 1 is suitable because, last time I looked, it was the only half suitable viscosity that met the basic ACEA A3.

Actually anything that meets mb229.3 will exceed Longlife1. The implication from the current Range Rover handbook is that anything that meets both ACEA A3 and B3 and is within a suitable range of viscosities will meet LL1. Or at least is good for long drain intervals in BMW engines. A further implication is that a long drain mulifleet oil such as the Q8 mentioned at the top of this post will be good for a BMW engine for longest drain intervals. Personally I use large volumes of the same specification oil in my fleet but not in my Range Rover thank you. I don't even use an oil that pretends to meet LL1 or ACEA A3/B3 in my diesel BMW engine. Instead I use an oil that meets heavy duty specification ACEA E4 [which is much higher rated than E5 which the Q8 meets] and mb228.5 ultra long drain type. But that's just me using overkill.

Huw

The comparison here, however, is between 20W50 and 15W40, isn't it?

That's exactly what I was trying to say!

Hence the fitting of the MGB relief spring, upping the pressure will give a bit of a flow increase.

Indeed, but the V8 feeds all its oil from the pump to the offside cam follower gallery first, with a cross-drilling arrangement to the nearside, there are separate drillings from there to feed the mains (and onwards to the big-ends via the crank drillings, with a small jet feed to the opposing bores from the con-rod caps), cam bearings and a feed to each head. The cam lobes are fed by oil seeping past the lower circumference of the cam follower and also return oil down the valley from the heads giving a "drip-feed" onto the cam.

I understand that perfectly Hew, BUT we are talking about the difference between either 10W40 (or 15W40) and 20W50. It's the 50 bit that's different, please see that.

Only if you are referring to 10W40 and 15W40!

Bull, from what I've seen over the years dismantling and rebuilding them. The use of a lighter weight oil than **W50 WILL cause accelerated wear of the rear main and no's 7&8 big-end shells. Landrover changed the recommendation based, as I have already stated, on market forces - I.E. the availability of certain grades. They don't care, because by the time the accelerated wear is an issue, the thing is out of warranty and not their problem anymore. The same reason for them never changing the rocker arm or shaft lubrication design, a known wear point. The engine's original designers deemed it not to be an issue for the exact same reasons of warranty!!

Probably won't do any harm, but Longlife I is the BMW spec, Longlife II is the VAG spec. Badger.

Can't remember which one is which off the top of my head, but one is 285 degrees duration, timing as follows IO 30 btdc, IC 75 abdc, EO 68 bbdc, EC 37 atdc. Other is 280 duration, IO 36 IC 64 EO 74 EC 26. The 285 cam gives slightly more top-end and was used on all SD1, and landrover low compression engines, the 280 was a later profile only used on higher compression (9.35) engines, designed to flatten out the torque curve slightly, trading off a couple of bhp. The valve lift for each is the same at 0.390" and they are physically interchangeable, the fuel pump cam being a separate item fitted between the sprocket and dizzy drive gear.

OK, Landrover quote the oil pressure as being 35 + or - 5psi at 2400rpm, hot. Try doing an oil pressure check with a calibrated gauge, first with

20W50, then with 5W30. You'll be lucky to see 30 with the heavier oil anyway, and you'll struggle to maintain 20 to 25 with the thinner stuff. That is a fact that you can prove for yourself, and it's obvious that the lower pressure (due to the internal clearances within the pump and relief valve) will give lower flow. You are referring to a book published in 1987, when 20W50 was pretty hard to find anyway. Remember what I said about market forces etc....?

All original books for the engine, regardless of whether it was in a Buick skylark, an Oldsmobile Cutlass or an early landrover product, an early SD1 or a P6, all quoted 20W50 as the correct grade. The engine design never changed up until the introduction of the serpentine variant, so what is your reasoning for the change in recommendation other than market forces? There was certainly no engineering explanation. The engine's lubrication was designed to pump a heavy weight oil in volume, not a lighter weight at pressure. the lubrication was marginal, even on the early engines, which was why the pump was enlarged to increase flow on the SD1 "redesign", along with better crank oil seals, but the recommendation was still 20W50. Badger.

Interesting stuff, thanks Hew. Badger.

All I can say is that the recommendation I quote is from the official workshop manual where even the lightest viscosities available at the time were acceptable within the limits I quoted. 20w/50 was certainly more common in '87 than it is today. 20w/50 was probably the fashionable oil of the day in the very early days when Rover built these things but that is not to say that a lighter oil was ever detrimental and certainly the manufacturers would not allow an oil to be used that was detrimental. Marketing has nothing to do with it, because all of the viscosities are and were and continue to be commonly available. No one particular viscosity was or is specified for the temperature range encountered in the UK.

Huw

In other words they are crap engines.

Huw

For general info the ACEA oil sequences can be found here:

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together with the API specs and the SAE J300 limits. Note that in J300 the HTHS viscosity of the thicker xxW40 and all xxW50 oils are both set to be 3.7mPas (cP) or greater. This test is run at 150degC under conditions similar to those in the big end bearing giving a very good indication of working viscosity, so whoever commented on them both being "thicker" oils was quite right. The big differences are evident at low temperatures.

Lizzy

"Badger" wrote after

Oh damn! Must have misread it, why don't they say Longlife BMW and Longlife Vag, using 1 and 11 sounds just like an update. I wonder what the difference is, I'll ring Castrol Tech Help tomorrow and ask that and what to do. Mind you I only used a litre at the most so I can't think it can do any harm. Only a couple of thousand miles to a full oil change too.

You're my kind of woman Lizzy ;-) We should meet up and get slippery LOL

Huw

Actually,She's exactly MY kind of woman.

Slippery or not.

Steve

Oh well. You can't blame a man for trying. We'll just have to be content discussing the relative merits of lubricants. I use Fuchs Turbolene HPE 15w/40 mostly. John Deere

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have recently launched an oil that meets the same [diesel] specifications AFAICS yet they claim 33 to 47% less engine wear or greater longevity when their product is used. All of their highlighted points are common to all such oils apart from their reduced engine wear claim which is specifically a comparison to oils of similar specification Should I believe that their oil is so much better than other oils meeting the same standards? AFAICS they do not claim a higher official specification is met by their oil than my Turbolene and neither is it synthetic, so what's up? Huw

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