Re: Defender door rot

Jun 28, 2003 5 Replies


OK, I am gradually catching up with the jobs on my "new" 1992 Defender 90


> and it looks as if I got a good deal! All the problems are so far of the
> trivial annoying kind that I can fix myself but convince a non-mechanical
> owner it's time to sell.
>
> I've adjusted the steering box, gear selector, oiled the squeaking clutch
> pedal, got the radio working, replaced the front prop shaft, replaced the
> rear UJs, got the bonnet to close, renewed the driver's door hinges, plus a
> dozen other things I've forgotten. So now I've got around to examining the
> driver's side door which is having problems with it's glass (loose and
> letting in water). Strangely, I can't find much on Google about this area. >
> Seems there a bit of welding needed to the centre member (just below the
> window opening) which has broken at both ends due to previous owners
> exerting too much force to close a door. It has been welded rather badly at
> the latch end. The door had dropped badly on it's hinges, hence the force
> needed to close it, but that is now fixed. That member would be no problem
> to weld up. But while looking at that, I noticed the bottom front corner of
> the door is rotten with rust. The aluminium skin is uncomfortably close and
> I would not be happy welding in there.
>
> Any suggestions? The skin of the door has the classic Land Rover rot where
> the aluminium has reacted with the steel frame but it is not too bad --
> yet. Do I just capitulate and buy new doors at £155 each (plus VAT etc.
> from Paddocks)? Look for secondhand ones? Weld up the frames and put on new
> skins (presumably that has to be done by a body shop)? Or is there another
> way I should know about?
>
> Thanks, guys, this is a great list!
>
> Derry

"Andy Sargeant" wrote in news:3efdf130$1_1@mk-nntp-

2.news.uk.tiscali.com:

Somehow I don't think I would profit by a 1,000 mile round trip in an attempt to save 48 quid. You did say "cash & carry"?

Derry

On or around Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:26:55 +0100, "Andy Sargeant" enlightened us thusly:

no bother, I could get 'em from Paddock, if I could afford 'em. Might invest in new hinges for front ones, the driver's top hinge is especially worn, though by moving the mounting on the pillar as far as the slotty hole allows, it now opens without having to ram it from inside with yer shoulder.

from the looks, the hinges on the front doors are 4 different ones.

(snip)

110 door hinges are the same top and bottom, same front and rear (not the door at the back), but different left and right. And are the same as Series
  1. All this except for the holes for mirrors on the top front hinges - if you count that, there are indeed four different ones - but you can always add the holes, and they won't hurt if you have them on the bottom or on rear doors. JD

"JD" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@dnews.tpgi.com.au:

I just replaced the hinges on the driver's side. Had to take the grinder to get the old ones off otherwise it looked as if it might not be too difficult to build up the worn surfaces with a bit of weld. I did think of swopping right for left, etc. so in effect they'd be turned upside down, but of course that wouldn't work as their backs are curved to the body. Maybe you could do that with the bottom ones -- but by that time I'd given up!

Derry

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